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Don't get lost!

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The Yorkshire Dales are very beautiful. But they're also unpredictable. They stretch over a huge area, with many wild places, hills and lanes that can all look very similar when the weather suddenly changes and mist descends.

Many of us learnt basic map-reading at school or as part of Brownie or Scout camps but it's a disappearing skill. Even those of us who know how to map-read can become over-reliant on an irritating voice relaying sat nav or Google map instructions on our phone. 

An alarmingly high number of walkers set off on long walks, simply hoping they'll be able to follow footpath signs or use a map on their phone to find their way around the Yorkshire Dales. 

The reality is that phone signals can disappear at the exact moment you need them most, weather conditions can change very quickly and those who can't 'read' the landscape can become lost very quickly. This may mean an embarrassed call to one of the volunteer mountain rescue services. 

Luckily there's a very simple answer to avoid all this, and make walks much more enjoyable: do a short, practical navigation course in the Yorkshire Dales with an experienced walking guide. There are several, in different parts of the Dales. They share a similar aim - to offer novice and experienced walkers a fun day that equips everyone with a valuable skill and confidence to make spending time outdoors even more enjoyable.   

Depending on the one day course you choose, you'll learn to really understand every detail on an Ordnance Survey map, to drill down into the detail of the weather forecast and what it means for your planned trip.

​You'll get to grips with using a compass and other methods of navigation, and be able to visualise the kind of terrain you'll cover so you're better prepared for your next outing. You'll also gain a better understanding of your rights and responsibilities in the countryside. 

You can join several practical navigation courses in the Yorkshire Dales. For more details see Where2Walk, Yorkshire Dales Guides and TeamWalking. The volunteer rescue services will thank you for it!

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Paragliding

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When I first started to write this blog I wanted to include as many different ways to enjoy and discover the Yorkshire Dales as I could. Until now the focus has been on places and things I've directly experienced myself.

Today's entry is certainly a very different way to enjoy the beauty of the Dales. I haven't yet tried it myself though - still dithering about whether I'm brave enough!

Thanks to amazing footage by drone photographers we've become more used to seeing the Yorkshire Dales as a birds' eye view.

Take a trip with Dean Crosby and you can actually become a bird. Well, almost. Dean is a multiple British Paragliding champion and former National Team captain. He runs Active Edge, a paragliding company in the Yorkshire Dales, and is keen to encourage beginners to sample the exhilaration of paragliding and being borne along by nothing other than the wind. He's been flying and teaching paragliding and hang gliding from the Dales for over 30 years. 

They offer Fundays as well as longer courses so you can enjoy a shorter session either as a one-off or before deciding if you'd like to learn all the skills. They welcome anyone over 16 year and there's no upper limit. A reasonable level of fitness is needed as you'd have to be capable of walking up small hills to get airborne. 

I'm not exactly scared of heights but have a fear that I'll be high in the sky and then suddenly want to shout "get me down, get me down!". Dean explains that many pilots are actually afraid of heights, but once you've understood how a glider works and how to stay safe you will become comfortable with the idea of flying.

I like the idea that the training builds up height gradually. You start by running down a slope, staying on the ground and then do small hops and move a little higher each time you fly. Compared to the way birds seem to learn to fly straight out of their nests, not quite knowing if they'll make it, this sounds a much better idea!

You can choose a funday or tandem paragliding which sounds particularly good to me. Tandem paragliding offers a short flight of 20-30 minutes, chance to relax and admire the view and take photos. 

As Dean says, the Yorkshire Dales offer some fantastic paragliding sites, with rolling hills, open moors and unobstructed landscapes for beginners. Their sites are mostly around around Settle, Ingleton, Hawes and Kettlewell so you'd be guaranteed to enjoy some of the most stunning green views in the country. For more details see Active Edge. 

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Ride2Stride Festival

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The Ride2Stride Festival is a simple but genius idea - an annual week long programme of walking and music events and activities in the Yorkshire Dales, each with a link to the splendid Settle - Carlisle Railway.

The Telegraph once described it as "Britain's best free walking festival".

The fact that it's mainly free isn't what makes it so good - it's the variety of events, opportunity to discover new places, celebrate the beauty of the landscape cut through by the railway.

Perhaps best of all is the fact that you don't need a car to participate. Most opportunities to walk anywhere in the Yorkshire Dales start with a car journey as public transport can be quite limited. 

Each day during the Ride2Stride festival, walks start at a station on the Settle - Carlisle Railway. The festival programme even tells you what time train to get from Leeds and then which to get back again. There are walks of varying lengths from 5 to 15 miles, all led by experienced walking guides. There's an added dimension to many of the walks - a chance to learn about the local terrain, see some beauty spots and learn about other aspects such as the wildflowers. The programme also includes events such as a Ribblehead Viaduct tour, geology talks and a visit to the Courtyard Dairy. 

In the late afternoon and evenings local pubs will be full of music and song.  They're timed so walkers can finish at a participating pub after their walk, before heading home. Different venues in Settle, Appleby and Ribblehead will host some excellent folk musicians. The 2019 event takes place from 30th April to 6th May. For full details take a look at the Ride2Stride website. 

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Feizor & Elaine's Tea Rooms

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Most cars whoosh along the A65 between Long Preston and Clapham with no idea of the delights they're missing at Feizor. Feizor is a little hamlet tucked away among the limestone hills, down a narrow wandering lane away from the rush of traffic. The lane takes its time curving this way and that, then petering out into a track after Feizor as if it just couldn't bear to leave.

You might wonder why Feizor even exists, it's such a tiny place? It's said that it was once owned by the monks of Fountains Abbey and was a stopping point on the packhorse road from York to Lancaster. The approach lane probably isn't much wider now than it ever was, but it doesn't matter: more visitors arrive on foot or bike than car. 

Feizor is a tiny place with a higgledy-piggledy selection of cottages and farmsteads, and yet it's held in many hearts as a very special destination. This is partly due to the very scenic paths criss-crossing Feizor and taking walkers on to slightly larger delights such as Austwick. But I suspect one of the main reasons is Elaine's famous Tea Rooms. This was apparently started as something of a hobby and now has grown to fill every spare space of the farm buildings. There's no need for "muddy boots & dogs welcome" signs here - practically every visitor comes with both. "Tea Rooms" is now something of a misnomer since full meals are served, along with drinks and cakes. Food is nutritious, wholesome, home-cooked and very plentiful. It's clear that Elaine expects her customers to make full use of the gorgeous surrounding countryside, marching on their stomachs after a visit to her cafe. 

Once you've established that Feizor's main attraction is food, you might be forgiven for wanting to be on your way to explore Giggleswick Scar or admire the views of Pen-y-ghent but there are three small curiosities for you to notice first. 

Apparently Wainwright was worried that the old village pump might be removed from Feizor and put in a museum. Forty years on, and it's still there in a garden across the road from Elaine's so do pay brief homage to it.

Next, look up at the roofs of the cottages and see if you can spot one with flagstones sticking out at the side of a chimney. They're called "Witches Seats" and according to local folklore were set there to encourage any flying witches to rest on the warm ledge rather than tormenting the inhabitants. 

The third curiosity is set about a mile outside Feizor, a few metres from the Pennine Bridleway. You'll have to ask a local to direct you as it's not marked on any maps. The "Celtic Wall" isn't very long - about 20 metres but it's said to be over 2000 years old. It's about 1.5 metres thick, the large limestones rounded and weathered by age. No one knows why it was built although there are suggestions it might have been an ancient defence against raiders or even covered some kind of burial mound.

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Bluebell Woods

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Coming across a carpet of bluebells in an ancient woodland feels like stumbling upon an enchanted scene in a fairy story - there's something magical about the appearance of hundreds of bluebells in Spring time.

Perhaps it's because the other early Spring flowers tend to be white or yellow, and blue suddenly seems exotic. Bluebells are actually quite rare outside the UK - we have around half the world's bluebells. 

I love some of the old English names for bluebells such as Witches' Thimbles, Cuckoo's Boots and Granfer Giggles.

The best places to see bluebells are in ancient woodlands. You can also find them among ferns in damp pastures, and even in the little grikes of limestone pavements. Bluebells like to avoid shade so grow and flower before the tree's canopy springs into full leaf. When you see them in hedgerows or among bracken, it can be a sign that these were spots once covered by woods. It's likely that bluebells were once even more populous in England as the Elizabethans used their bulbs to make starch for their ruffs, and the flower stalks were used as glue in bookbinding and for fastening feathers to arrows! 

Three different species grow here - Italian, Spanish and English. If you plant some at home, try to make sure you plant the native English species (Hyacinthoides non-scripta). You can identify our native bluebells by looking for those with the longest stems and strongly scented flowers that hang delicately on one side. Bumblebees appreciate their early nectar. 

Some beautiful bluebell woods to visit in the Yorkshire Dales: 
  • Oxenber Woods by Austwick 
  • Hackfall near Masham 
  • ​Grass Wood near Grassington 
  • Freeholders Wood in Lower Wensleydale

Please do be careful when you visit bluebell woods

Bluebells are really delicate, taking more than five years to become established from seed and they can take a long time to recover when their leaves are crushed (so don't walk among them or let dogs do so), sometimes even dying. It's against the law to pick or destroy bluebells. They die quickly once picked so please don't be tempted by their beautiful colour - a photo of them will last much longer and do less damage!
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Images below by Jane Nair, Low Mill Guest House


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Grassington

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GGrassington in Wharfedale is a lovely small market town (often referred to as a village), where you can enjoy a leisurely wander up and down its two parallel lanes. Many people use it as a base from which to walk, or come to shop. Spend a little longer and saunter down some of its little side alleys and you'll discover many intriguing and beautiful historical features. Some of the date stones above the doorways of the old buildings are ancient and ornate. 

In the surrounding area you'll be able to spot some of the vestiges of the former lead mining industry, which is also commemorated in the welcome stone on the cobbled area at the bottom of the hill. The Grass Woods nearby have a wonderful show of bluebells in the spring and was also the site of a fortress of ancient Britons who 
fought against the Romans.

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Grassington is a bustling  centre within the Dales, with enough small independent shops to satisfy locals and visitors. I'm always drawn by the hardware shop, convinced they have things I urgently need. 

​There are several cafes and pubs, including the excellent Grassington Lodge. 

The wine shop has a tardis-like feel and great selection, and there are plenty of places to buy chocolates, crafts gifts and clothes. The relatively new Stripey Badger book shop is another welcome addition.

Dig deeper into Grassington's history with a visit to the small Grassington folk museum which is free to enter but donations are very welcome. It reminds me of the kind of museums my sister and I used to love to visit as children, and then try to recreate at home. Many museums feel they have to distract from the fact they're full of historical items by providing touch screens to interest younger visitors, whereas the objects themselves are the reason the museum really exists. 
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One of Grassington's less savoury claims to fame is as home of the notorious blacksmith Tom Lee. In 1766, he went to a cock fight in Kettlewell with Dr Petty where the doctor won a significant sum of money in a bet. They apparently celebrated at various inns on the way home before Dr. Petty was killed in Grassington Woods. Tom Lee was arrested but there wasn't enough evidence to charge him until a former servant came forward a couple of year later and gave evidence so Tom Lee was arrested again and hanged. There are local stories that he still haunts the area.
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You can enjoy jollier entertainment during the two week Grassington Festival each summer and the Dickensian Festival in December each year. ​​Parking is limited so start your visit at the bottom of the hill, parking in the Yorkshire Dales National Park's car park. ​

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Cake!

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SoWhether it's something you eat when meeting friends, reserve for celebrations or treat yourself with after a long climb up a big hill, cake can form a very important focal point for a visit! So where are the best places to enjoy cake in the Yorkshire Dales? 

I've added some of my favourite tried and tested places below. If you have others you'd like to recommend please do add them in the comments below. It's helpful if you can say where your favourite places are and what makes them so good. 

Top of the list has to be the Friday Showstopper created by Brenda every week at the Dales Bike Centre near Reeth. Her creations are incredibly imaginative. The picture features her 'Triple layer bramble hedgerow gin flavoured sponge cake with Yorkshire rhubarb & gin preserve and a lime mascarpone cream topped with blackberry & passion fruit macaroons, thyme & lime zest!'

Some other great places to try: 
  • Three Hares Café in Sedbergh has a strong local reputation for its great fresh bread, cakes and snacks
  • Humble Pie in Askrigg is highly recommended, particularly for my favourite - the huge portion of lemon meringue pies 
  • Settle's Folly Coffee House in the town's historic 17th century house and Museum has a sumptuous array of freshly made cakes every day. 
  • Bernies Café Bar in Ingleton is very popular - serving amazing scones with cream,
  • Enjoy the scenic walk from Clapham to Austwick, finishing with afternoon tea at the Austwick Traddock
  • Climb England's newest mountain, Calf Top, before descending and enjoying home made cake and a pot of tea at The Churchmouse at Barbon
  • After you've climbed the hill to see the remarkable Coldstone Cut sculpture and incredible views, reward yourself with a treat from Toft Gate Barn Cafe - they have a delicious range of cakes
  • The Old School Room in Hebden serves delicious cakes in a beautiful setting and you might meet their pygmy goats and rare breed hens
  • The Town End Farm Shop at Airton by Malham is a great place to buy local food, as well as to enjoy excellent cakes, coffee and meals
  • Enjoy a walk down to the waterfalls before a meal or snack in the cafe at Berry’s Farm Shop at Swinithwaite
Please do let me know about your favourites!

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Sedbergh for books, food & wool

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Sedbergh is snuggled beneath the Howgills, straddling Cumbria and Yorkshire. Its address is Cumbria but we claim happily claim it as 'ours' since it's within the Yorkshire Dales National Park.

There are few settlements that nestle in such a stunning setting. Driving along the A683 towards Sedbergh, it's hard not to get distracted by the incredible views. Wainwright said the Howgill fells look like a 'herd of sleeping elephants' and I'd agree, although when we were young we used to say 'the giant hasn't made his bed properly' when we saw this sort of landscape. No idea where the idea of the giant came from... 

Whenever I reach Sedbergh, I always think of the travellers of yesteryear arriving by horse or carriage after a long journey. How surprised and relieved they must have felt when they finally saw Sedbergh, realising they could dismount and enjoy a good meal and a rest. For some time, Sedbergh was one of those very pleasant places you might stop off at en route between the Lakes and Dales. Now it's very definitely worth a visit in its own right. It's small but perfectly formed, and I think there are at least three very good reasons to spend some time there. 

Several years ago it proclaimed itself England's Book Town. Sedbergh may have as many bookshops as somewhere like Hay-on-wye but there are enough to please most book worms. Within Westwoods alone there are around 70,000 books to choose from. Several of the cafes also sell books. 

Sedbergh has a massive appeal for anyone who loves wool and textiles, and thanks to a recent appeal it looks like
 Farfield Mill has now been saved for future generations to enjoy. They have an excellent programme of workshops and events, tempting needleworkers, knitters, quilters, and weavers to make their own textile pilgrimage over the hills to Sedbergh. 

Given its hilly location, it's not surprising that the sun doesn't always shine in Sedbergh but that's almost OK, thanks to the really cosy and welcoming cafes, pubs and restaurants. The quality of some of the food on offer lures many a visitor. Nina and James who own the Three Hares and also run the beautifully re-furbished Black Bull Inn can be thanked for some of this appeal. I think a lot of visitors from further afield are surprised at some of the ingredients used and stylish presentation.

Traditional English comfort food is available in Sedbergh but there's a more contemporary offering too that few expect. The Dales are not known as a destination for more exotic dishes but is likely to change as the Supper Club at the Malabar develops. Fiona and Graham put their years living in Mumbai to good use, offering pop up Indian food evenings in a stunning setting. Artisan Markets and other food-related events in Sedbergh mean there's no shortage of gourmet reasons to visit. 

If that's not enough, you could use Sedbergh as a base to follow in Wainwright's footsteps, to see Cautley Spout, discover the Pub with No Beer or to find the 'loose cannons' lying around Sedbergh's ginnels and alleyways...

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Serene & Spiritual

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Looking out from the top of one of the Dales, you can't help but wonder at the creation of this magnificent landscape. It's easy to enjoy the serenity of the countryside and to find a quiet corner to stop and reflect.

Over a thousand years ago, the first monks recognised the beauty of the Dales and established their communities at Bolton Abbey, Jervaulx and 
Fountains Abbey. Although the Abbeys are now in ruins (thanks to Henry VIII), you can still feel the power of these splendid buildings, their settings, and the sense of awe they instil.

​​We still have many small, ancient and beautiful village churches, which offer a place to pause and enjoy quiet contemplation. They tell the story of strong community and families who have remained in this area through the generations. Some have rich, often surprising contents. Most of the churches are open and welcome visitors, to pray and ponder. Take a look at their notice boards for details of village activities such as shows, coffee mornings and talks.

If you'd like to retreat and reflect for longer, Scargill House near Kettlewell offers short breaks and holidays, or you can just pop into their tranquil walled garden. Some of the loveliest and most tranquil sites for quiet reflection are the Quaker meeting houses, particularly at Brigflatts near Sedbergh, Airton near Malham, Settle and Countersett near Bainbridge. 

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Best Dales Views

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PictureImage by Terry Jackman - Buckden Pike to Starbottom
Where's your favourite view in the Yorkshire Dales? 

In today's blog some locals suggest their favourite places to stand and stare. If you have others you'd like to share please add them in the comments below. 

The 30 degree views from the top of Bolton Castle never fail to uplift and inspire. They are ever changing, beautiful and so atmospheric especially if you imagine how many people must have stood on the same spot over the centuries. 

"There's a fantastic view as you come from Hawes to Thwaite over the Buttertubs. Just as you start to descend, the majesty of Swaledale opens out in front of you. Every time it's different and special because of the fabulous changing light and weather." Glen Payne, Herriots in Hawes. 

"I feel so lucky to be here. Standing at the viewpoint on the road from Hawes to Oughtershaw, especailly when there is an amazing red sun setting over the flat top of Ingleborough. It feels truly on top of the world as you can see the wilderness for miles and miles." Fiona Clark, Nethergill Farm. 

"I love the view from Middlesmoor Church, looking down into Upper Nidderdale. There's not a more beautiful and thought-provoking place in the world!" Anne Challis, Studfold

"Oxenbur Ridge is a flat, limestone pavemented hill. From its top you can see Austwick, village life and farming traditions that stretch back centuries." Paul Reynolds, The Traddock, Austwick. 

"I love to walk up to the top of Fremington Edge and just sit and watch the convergence of Swaledale and Arkengarthdale. Reeth is a perfect spot for a tiny town- no wonder the Romans and Vikings settled here." Jane Sammells, Kitchen Curriculum. 

"The view from the top of Kilnsey Crag at sunrise is pretty hard to beat." Jamie Roberts, Kilnsey Park Estate. 

"It's just a short climb over the canal bridge here in Bank Newton to the top of Banks Hill, and yet there's a wonderful 360 degree panorama taking in Malham Cover and Pendle Hill." Rachel Berry, Newton Grange. 

"I really enjoy the views from Cautley Spout, about half way up (because it's such hard work climbing to the top!). There's a rock you can sit on to look back down the valley, following the ribbon of stream to where it joins the river." Laura Rosenzweig, Laura's Loom.

"Looking out over Thieves Moss from Sulber. It's just such a fantastic view over this sweep of limestone pavement and Crummackdale." Mark Allum. 

"It's wonderful to be in Oxenber Woods at bluebell time, looking across a sea of bluebells and really savouring the scent." Gail Smith, Yorkshire Dales Millennium Trust.

"I love sitting on the top of High Hill from which there is a stunning, panoramic view of Settle, Giggleswick, Pendle Hill, the Bowland Fells, Ingleborough, Pen-y-Ghent, the river Ribble and the Settle-Carlisle Railway." Sue Amphlett, Cottontail Crafts. 

Is your favourite view in the Yorkshire Dales included in this list? If not, do add it in the comments below. Thanks!

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    Smallest Art Gallery In The World
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    What Makes A Good Yorkshire Dales Pub
    When It Rains In The Yorkshire Dales
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    Wool In The Yorkshire Dales
    Wriggly Tin
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    Yorkshire Dales Animal Artists
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Find more places to visit in the Yorkshire Dales

Wharfedale
Grassington
Kettlewell
Burnsall
Appletreewick
Kilnsey

Bolton Abbey Estate

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Swaledale & Arkengarthdale
Reeth
Richmond
Muker
Thwaite
Keld
Buttertubs
Langthwaite
Gunnerside
Crackpot Hall
Corpse Way
Swale Trail
Wensleydale
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Hawes
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Leyburn
Masham
Middleham
Askrigg
Wensley
Aysgarth
Carperby


Ribblesdale & Three Peaks
Settle
Settle-Carlisle Railway 
Yorkshire Three Peaks
Clapham
Feizor
Hoffman
Ingleborough
Ingleton
Stainforth
Nidderdale
Pateley Bridge
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Scar House Reservoir
Coldstones Cut
Fountains Abbey

​Brimham Rocks

About DalesDiscoveries.com

This independent not-for-profit website was created using recommendations from Dales insiders' - people who live in, and love the Yorkshire Dales. 
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​Copyright Susan Briggs 2021
The Tourism Network
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Masham
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