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Hay meadows

Say the words 'hay meadows' in the Yorkshire Dales and it's as if you've cast a magic spell. Anyone hearing them will smile and wax lyrical about their beauty. Say these words in Swaledale and the effect is even more marked. The pride on local's faces is like a beacon of joy.

This might sound like exaggeration to those who've never seen the Yorkshire Dales hay meadows in late May and June. Those who have enjoyed their rich, vibrant colours will now be nodding wisely in agreement with me.

So what's so special about the hay meadows at this time of year? For a start, over 95% of meadows in the UK have been lost over the last 50 years so any that remain are highly prized, for both their beauty and biodiversity. Some of the best hay meadows in the UK are to be found in the Yorkshire Dales. A carefully and traditionally managed hay meadow can support up to 120 different species of wildflowers and other plants, as well as many species of invertebrates, bats, mammals and birds.

It isn't just a simple case of letting the grass grow and being glad to see a few wildflowers among the grasses.
Not every field is suitable for a hay meadow. They need to be fertile, sheltered and flat enough to cut the hay. You can't make a good hay meadow in a year - some of the restored hay meadows in the Dales are the product of at least two decades of careful management.

The meadows are to be found in valley bottoms where the soil is deeper and richer. These fields are grazed by cattle for some of the year, adding manure to fertilise the soil. Then the stock is moved, often to higher ground, and the meadows are left to grow. Deciding when to cut the hay is a careful judgement. Farmers have to balance the growth of the crop with the reliability of the weather forecast. Hay has to be left to dry out in the fields so several dry days are necessary. Later cutting enables the wildflowers and grasses to set seeds and act as an important habitat, making the hay meadows ever richer.

It's thanks to a partnership between farmers, the Yorkshire Dales Millennium Trust and Yorkshire Dales National Park Authority called the Hay Time Project that we have such rich meadows here. The Flowers of the Dales Festival runs from March to October, celebrating the lush hay meadows with walks, courses and family activities.

Best places to see hay meadows

You can see lush hay meadows all around the Yorkshire Dales although some of the richest and best known are in and around Muker in Swaledale. Look for them near Askrigg in Wensleydale, around Yockenthwaite in Langstrothdale, and by Grassington in Wharfedale.

You can download some suggested walks around hay meadows from YDMT.

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James Herriot TV locations

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I wonder how many visitors to the Yorkshire Dales first came because of James Herriot, and are still coming because of him? Many of today's vets were inspired by his books.

They were written in the 1970s and followed by the TV series All Creatures Great and Small which ran from 1978 to 1983. Many parts of Wensleydale and Swaledale are already familiar to visitors thanks to those evocative programmes.

The real James Herriot (Alf Wright) enjoyed several holidays in West Scrafton and Coverdale, where several episodes were filmed.

It's said that he first fell in love with the Yorkshire Dales after standing at the top of the hill above Grinton and looking at the surrounding view.

The opening credits of the programme featured the water splash between Langthwaite and Low Row. One of the places most associated with the TV programme is Askrigg which doubled as Darrowby using the Kings Arms as the Drovers Arms. You can still see the building known as Skeldale House by the market cross. James Herriot got married at another local inn: the Wheatsheaf in Carperby. He (or rather Alf Wright) proposed to his wife at Bolton Castle. In the TV series Holy Trinity Church in Wensley was used as the location for his wedding.

Simonstone Hall has become better known thanks to a different TV programme and Jeremy Clarkson, but was originally used as the venue for Darrowby Show. Nearby Hawes' auction mart was used as Darrowby Cattle Mart. The market town of Leyburn also featured, as 'Scarsburn', the home of Granville Bennett and where the Ministry of Agriculture was sited. Thornborough Hall behind the main market square was used as the Min. of Ag.

You can see a recreation of James Herriot's surgery in Richmondshire Museum or leave the Dales for a little while to visit Thirsk and the World of James Herriot small visitor attraction, in the building where the world's most famous vet lived, worked and wrote his books. Download the Herriot Trail and map for full details of the TV locations.

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Oak Apples

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Today I'd like us all to spend a moment to appreciate a rather remarkable 'fruit' that's so special it even has its own day, was essential to the Magna Carta and American Declaration of Independence, and is a fascinating feat of nature. You can even do a sort-of-magic trick with it. And yet barely any of us even notice they're there...

Everyone knows that apples grow on apple trees, and acorns grown on oak trees. What of oak apples? They're quite a curious growth like a slightly deformed apple on some oak trees. There are lots of clusters them on one of the friendly oak trees (I always think of oak trees as the most sociable trees, with ash coming a close second) near me at the moment.

Despite their appearance, they're not fruit at all but are a kind of nest created by wasps. The female lays eggs in a new leaf, causing the gall to grow with larvae inside. In around June the wasps hatch, drop to the ground and then inject the tree roots with eggs. Eventually the wingless females climb up the tree to repeat the process. No oak trees are harmed in this process.

So why does this curious sphere have its own day? 29th May is Oak Apple Day, commemorating Charles II's escape from capture by the Parliamentary forces by hiding in the Boscobel Oak in Shropshire. An act of parliament meant this became a public holiday and is still celebrated by some. Chelsea Pensioners attach oak leaves to their scarlet uniforms on Founder's Day (celebrated as close as possible to Oak Apple Day) at the Royal Hospital Chelsea, which was founded by Charles II.

Oak apples have played another important role in history. The galls have a high tannin content and they have been used to make ink since Roman times. Documents such as the Magna Carta and American Declaration of Independence were written with oak gall ink.

I mentioned a sort-of-magic trick. If you pick an oak apple at the right time as it's becoming drier and more papery, then put your head back, blow a continuous stream of air and let go of the oak apple, you should be able to keep it in suspended animation in the air by blowing... or so I'm told.

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Classic Cars

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Many visitors to the Yorkshire Dales come here to walk, cycle or just relax.

What if you're looking for something a little special, a different way to explore the Dales or to celebrate a special occasion here?

How about driving on some of our most beautiful routes such as the Buttertubs in a classic car? Imagine driving around in a car that's as stunning as the scenery.

Fancy a day sampling the delights of an E-type Jaguar? A Corvette Stingray or Porsche 911 will make heads turn where-ever you go, or you might decide on a more discrete Morris Minor for a touch of more down-to-earth nostalgia.

One of my favourites is the Morgan, which feels like a classic car but is easier to drive than some. Roof down, meandering around the narrow lanes, stopping en route as often as you want to mooch around the Dales villages, perhaps have a picnic by a stream.

For a really special time an Aston Martin Convertible might be the thing?

There are several companies offering such special experiences. The cars in these photos are available for a day or short break from Classic Car Hire North who will explain all the controls and must-knows to you before you drive off into the Dales.

You can also hire a Morgan through Craven Classic Car Hire.

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Stories of the Vault

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Isn't it wonderful to find somewhere that really exceeds your expectations? To discover a place that hasn't been hyped and that quietly offers something different and really good?

I've worked in tourism for a very long time (30 years) and helped develop a lot of visitor attractions so it's easy to feel a bit jaded and cynical when I hear of a new attraction. Many sound good in principle but the reality can be disappointing. How do you create something special when it feels like everything's been done before?

There are plenty of £multi-million new visitor attractions around the world that are quite good. But one of the simplest, best and most intriguing I've seen in a long time is here in the Yorkshire Dales National Park - in Kirkby Lonsdale. Unbelievably it's even free to visit - although donations and a few positive words in their visitors' book are both very much appreciated.

It's called the The Vault: A Kirkby Lonsdale Story Bank. I thought the idea sounded intriguing but wondered whether it would be as good as it sounded: it certainly is, and it's suitable for anyone from very young to very old.

Part of its appeal is that it feels a little secret even though it's hidden in plain sight. You have to go to the back of the Visitor Information Centre in The Old Bank on Main Street and ask the friendly folk behind the counter if you can see it. They'll show you the thick old vault doors, behind which is a small room that used to be where the bank's safety deposit boxes were stored. It's now the repository for some wonderful stories of Kirkby's past.

Inside the darkened room is an old desk, with an angle poise lamp and a set of half-open doors where the deposit boxes were once kept. It all feels very mysterious. You're left in the rom to choose a deposit box and take out the object inside. These range from a hip-flask, to a soft glove, and a slate. The next bit feels worthy of Harry Potter. You simply place the tag attached to the object in the centre of the desk, stand back and hey presto - the back wall comes alive with a character from the past connected to the object, telling their story.

Each of the stories lasts about five minutes and is very engaging. The combination of an actor, local stories, old photos and documents brings each story to life. Examples include a blacksmith turned broadcaster, Ruskin and Turner, and a teacher from a local school. They all offer some interesting insights about the history of Kirkby Lonsdale and surrounding area, and each suggests places to look out for or something else to see nearby. There are seven characters in all, each telling a true story. It's a good place to start a visit to Kirkby Lonsdale. Afterwards you'll find yourself looking at the small town more carefully, looking for Ruskin's View (or was it Turners?) and the obelisk memorial...

The whole idea was apparently the brainchild of project manager Jayne Davies who worked with a team of community researchers, writers and actors. You can unlock the secrets of the vault every day of the week between 10.00 am and 4.30 pm.

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Historical re-enactments

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We've got a lot of history in the Yorkshire Dales, some of it hidden and some more obvious thanks to buildings such as one of the oldest castles in England at Richmond and former abbeys such as Bolton Abbey and Jervaulx Abbey.

During the Summer months some of the historic buildings play host to living history events when stories of the past are recreated by historical societies and costumed interpreters. It's a great way to understand the part played by the castles and to get an insight into the life and activities of people who lived there.

You could see a recreation of a medieval campsite, with demonstrations of knights' skills and armour, have a chance to practice archery or enter into the spirit of the re-telling of stories of the past by hissing and booing or supporting members of the castle household.

Some of the events are likely to be more sedate, with opportunities to learn about dress from the time of the War of the Roses, to perhaps watch a mummers play or listen to medieval music played in a castle.

You might also learn some forgotten skills such as candle-making, stone-carving or creating cures and potions using herbs.

For details of historical re-creations taking place this summer see the events pages on websites for Bolton Castle, Richmond Castle, Middleham Castle, Skipton Castle.

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Cow Parsley or Mother Die?

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The Dales hay meadows are starting to fill with lush green grasses and colourful wildflowers.

Hedgerows and woodland edges are full of life and the Cow Parsley is suddenly tall and frothy with its delicate white flowers. At this time of year when the flowers are spread wide and flat, it's easy to see why it's also known as "Queen Anne's Lace".

When we were little we always knew it by its more threatening name, "Mother Die", although my memory of that was more once the flowers had finished and the distinctive seed head formed. I remember creating magic potions out of various seeds and desperately wanting to pick the cow parsley seed heads as they were so plentiful and interestingly shaped, but never daring to do so. We all believed that if we picked it our mothers may die. We could be forgiven for believing Cow Parsley has special properties: it's one of those plants that's barely there one minute and then suddenly grows like topsy and is everywhere.

The Mother Die name was probably deliberately used to discourage children from picking it because it can easily be confused with poisonous Hemlock and Hogweed whose sap causes nasty skin burns.

Cow Parsley is actually related to carrot and much enjoyed by bees and many insects so it's a useful plant. If you're absolutely certain that you've got the identification right, you can apparently add young leaves to salads. If you dare to pick it, the leaves have an aniseedy smell. Italian researchers have recently found that Cow Parsley may be useful as part of an anti-cancer drug. Sheep often love Cow Parsley, bashing the stems to release the juice on to their head so it acts as a natural fly repellent.

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By the Mouseman

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"It's by the Mouseman".

I don't know when my mum first uttered those words in a slightly hushed tone but it was many years ago. I've looked out for the Mouseman's work ever since, partly because it's often hidden and I'm overly curious (ok, 'nosey' is the more Yorkshire way of putting it) and partly to admire his craftsmanship.

So who was the 'Mouseman'?

Robert Thompson was born in 1876, lived in Kilburn near Thirsk and made oak furniture. A small carved mouse made him famous.

He was carving an altar rail one day, bemoaning his poverty with a colleague, saying they were 'as poor as a church mouse'. According to his great grandson, "He had this idea of a church mouse gnawing away and no one knew it was there, so thought it was a good idea to use it as a trademark". From that moment on, he carved a small mouse on every piece he made, and became known to future generations as 'the Mouseman'.

Perhaps part of the charm is that his mice are rarely in the same position so you have to hunt for them a little. They could be on a table leg or the underside of a chair so there's a burst of pleasure when you spot one, knowing not everyone will.

Look carefully and you'll be able to find them all over the Yorkshire Dales, often in churches. Take a look at the pews, choir stalls and chairs in Hubberholme church or at the rood loft and oak pews, or in the church at Bolton Abbey where you'll find the distinctive mouse carving on the Bishop's Chair and board listing previous Priors. I was delighted to recently spot the little mouse on the lychgate by the cemetery at Greenhow.

Not all the mice are in churches. Look carefully anywhere you find heavier oak furniture and you may discover a hidden mouse carvings such as on the bar stools and bar at the Punch Bowl Inn in Low Row.

Estate sales at Tennants often feature Robert Thompson's furniture, which can be seen on display during their viewing days, and which usually commands high prices.

Next time you spot me craning my neck to examine the underside of an oak chair, you'll know why.

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Austwick Cuckoos

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Some folk are wise... Some are otherwise.

Austwick is a beautiful hamlet near Settle, surrounded by superb countryside and patchworks of dry stone walls.

Winters can be harsh so of course everyone looks forward to spotting the first signs of spring. The cuckoo is seen by many as the harbinger of spring and better weather.

Many years ago, when maybe the Winter had been a little harder than usual, the good people of Austwick were so pleased to spot the first cuckoo nesting in a tree (or maybe it had stolen another nest), they quickly built a wall around it in the hope of keeping it there. Unfortunately the wall wasn’t high enough so the cuckoo simply flew away…

I'm not sure why you'd want to commemorate such folly but this story is remembered on the second May bank holiday each year with a festival, fell race and other family entertainments in Austwick.

If you don't fancy going to Austwick to spot cuckoos, you might be more interested in enjoying a drink at the Game Cock Inn or relaxing in the charming garden at the Traddock with an excellent lunch or dinner. You could work up an appetite with a good walk first - there are some excellent routes to nearby Feizor, Clapham and Oxenber Woods.

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Gardens in the Dales

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Garden behind Hudson House, Reeth

We're trend-setters here in the Yorkshire Dales.

Years before people were properly talking about mindfulness and the benefits of spending time in nature, we were celebrating the joys of slowing down and being outdoors in our Yorkshire Dales Guide to Health & Happiness.

Now it seems that Chelsea Flower Show and the gardening world are raving about the beauty of wilderness gardens and a more natural feel.

Of course, this is what we've known all along, and there are plenty of good examples in the Dales. I smiled when I saw some of the 'back to nature' Chelsea Show gardens on TV: it looked like designers, gardeners and the Duchess of Cambridge spent hours re-creating the feel of the bits of my own garden that I've not quite got round to taming... Laziness can apparently be made to look effortful and fashionable.

The Yorkshire Dales are more often associated with acres of grass and hill so you might be surprised to know just how many carefully maintained and stunning gardens there are here. The best known is on the fringes of the Dales in Harrogate: the RHS Harlow Carr, but it's some of the lesser known gardens that are the real gems. As you travel up towards the Dales, you might like to visit a very different type of garden: the breathtakingly beautiful Studley Royal Water Garden, part of the Fountains Abbey Estate and a World Heritage Site.

Parceval Hall gardens

Surprisingly few people have heard of one of my favourite places. The
Parceval Hall Gardens by Trollers Gill near Appletreewick are a fine example of the Arts & Crafts movement. There's a rock garden, rhododendrons, rose garden, camellia walk and plenty of tranquil spaces in which to rest and reflect. The setting is stunning, in a secret hollow of the Dales, as if it's been carved out of the wilder neighbouring countryside.

If you like rhododendrons, don't miss the Himalayan Gardens near Masham, where countless sculptures are displayed through the garden and woodland.

Constable Burton Hall Garden near Leyburn is particularly known for its annual Tulip Festival.

Nearby is the medieval Bolton Castle where you'll find one of England's most northernly vineyards and a maze.

Wensley

The garden at Millgate House in Richmond is a wonderful surprise - you pass through an ordinary looking door way off the market square into a special plantsman's paradise, with every plant carefully chosen for colour and interest. It's not a big garden, more of an intimate oasis of beauty.

Another hidden retreat can be found on the main road between Leyburn and Hawes, at Aysgarth Rock Garden. It's a small compact rock garden that makes full use of every nook and cranny. When visiting White Rose Candles one day I was delighted to find the tiny little community garden in Wensley, the kind of wildlife garden that so many Chelsea Show gardeners try to emulate.

Another hidden gem can be found in Reeth behind Hudson House - the community garden. It's a small space that's particularly lovely in early Summer and there's also a tiny exhibition in the Old Privy!

The 'Prince of Alpine Gardeners', Reginald Farrar was from Clapham in the Yorkshire Dales, and was an intriguing and eccentric plant collector. One of the stories often told about him involves him loading a shotgun with seeds from his travels and firing them into the rocks on his land at Ingleborough. You can see some of his creation along the Ingleborough Nature Trail.

Some of the most interesting and charming gardens in and around the Dales are in private or trust ownership and not often open to the public, so do take a look at the National Garden Scheme programme for openings of places like Old Sleningford, Norton Conyers, Clifton Castle, the Grange, Boxwood House, and Markenfield Hall.

Note: opening times for all the gardens mentioned above vary so please ensure you check details before planning a visit.

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Hay meadows

James Herriot TV locations

Oak Apples

Classic Cars

Stories of the Vault

Historical re-enactments

Cow Parsley or Mother Die?

By the Mouseman

Austwick Cuckoos

Gardens in the Dales

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