Blog Archives

Ingleton Treasure Map

As Ingleton's own sign declares, there's no shortage of attractions and things to do in the "land of caves and waterfalls''.

Some of Ingleton's charms such as the open air swimming pool are quite obvious. Some become clearer after a little more detective work - which is pretty appropriate given Ingleton's influence on creator of Sherlock Holmes, Sir Arthur Conan Doyle.

If you'd like to make sure you don't miss anything, download this simple treasure map.

Rather than tell you exactly what to find where, we've created a simple map highlighting the locations of some 'star sights'. You'll need to wander around to find out exactly what those star sights are but I can give you a few hints. They include:

the Waterfalls trail
Ingleton Pottery
Ingleton Viaduct spanning the River Greta
Open Air Swimming Pool
Witches weathervane
Sherlock Holmes connections with Ingleton
Glass being made and sold along with other handmade items at Stonegate Glass

It includes some other nearby attractions too: White Scar Cave; and St. Oswald’s Church in Thornton in Lonsdale where Sir Arthur Conan Doyle married his wife Louise in 1885 and Masongill, where his mother Mary lived.

Don't miss some of the other new businesses that have recently opened in Ingleton. I won't tell you exactly which they are - up to you to discover them! Download the free Ingleton Treasure Map here.

Tombola & Raffle kings & queens

Meet Basil. There'a a Basil or Betty in every village in the Dales, unsung heroes, quietly doing their bit to secure the future of essential buildings and activities.

At some point every Dales village needs to raise funds, whether it’s for repairs to the church roof, village hall, or community group. Many different and creative activities take place, from festivals to village fetes, but there’s rarely a month without a raffle or tombola. That’s when Basil or Betty shine, quietly and without fuss.

In every village there’s someone who knows where the raffle books are, who has a spare book ready just in case. This person usually has their own special basket for putting the raffle tickets in, ready for the draw. They have a system for folding up the tickets nice and tight, lightning fast when there’s a queue to buy them. They have infinite patience when it comes to encouraging people to give prizes or helping winners pick a prize.

They’re the ones who can remember whether you put the 0s or another number into the tombola barrel. They remember how the numbers go on the prizes. When an event takes place, they’re poised and ready to deal with the queue, knowing the tombola is always one of the most popular events. They probably organised the making and purchase of the village tombola barrel years ago too.

Basil is our local King of the Raffle and Tombola. Unfailingly cheerful and fun to be with, he presides over each event. He has a sideline too as the Keeper and Teller of Many Local Stories, winding stories that cut across decades and dynasties. I often wonder how many thousands of pounds he must have raised over the years for so many different causes? How many tickets has he sold, how many chirpy conversations has he had as a result of his task?

So this is just a quick thank you to the Basil or Betty in every Dales village. The church roof, the local clubs, the children, the adults you’ve helped to support over the years appreciate you.

If you’re a visitor to the Dales and see an event with a raffle or tombola, please dig deep, buy plenty of tickets and have a chat.

As I write this, I've reflected on the prizes I’ve won. There are certain ‘gifts’ that appear at each event, that are won and then maybe re-donated to the next event, re-appearing regularly until they finally find a lucky owner who truly appreciates them. There are other prizes that can seem incredibly generous, perhaps guiltily donated by some-one who actually meant to bake a cake for the sale and ran out of time. And then there are the prizes that are just a little bizarre, maybe retrieved from the back of a cupboard somewhere and hastily added to the donation pile. I think my oddest win ever was a huge bottle of Head and Shoulders dandruff shampoo – for greasy hair…

I also wondered about the origin of the word 'tombola'. It means 'somersault 'in Italian which makes sense when you think of the tombola barrel. It was the name of board game in Southern Italy and a lotto game in Northern Italy, and was probably brought to England by Italian emigrees.

Clapham Treasure Map

The Clapham Treasure Map is one of a series that I've created to help visitors (and locals) enjoy all that some of our most beautiful communities have to offer.

Rather than tell you exactly what's where, mystery 'star sights' are marked on a simple map, so you can discover some of Clapham's best spots and most interesting features for yourself.

Download the Clapham Treasure Map here and you'll be able to find:

Peace and tranquillity next to Clapham Beck
Ingleborough Cave
Beautiful bridges and crossing points
Home of the Cave Rescue Organisation
Shops, cafes and pubs
Ingleborough Nature Trail
Story of Reginald Farrer
Thwaite Lane footpath

Not far away are more delights to be discovered, including Robin Proctors Scar, the Norber Erratics - amazing balanced rocks in interesting formations, and the delightful village of Austwick.

If you'd like to cheat a little before you explore Clapham with this simple Treasure Map, you might like to read this longer blog about Clapham and why it's so special.

Heather

Image by Guy Carpenter

A large part of the upland areas in the Yorkshire Dales is moorland, open uncultivated land, often covered with heather.

For much of the year you might not really notice it, and then it suddenly blooms and the whole landscape changes colour and feel. It’s a very hardy, wind-resistant plant so thrives on the open moorland, often living over 20 years, where nothing much else survives.

The first heather to bloom, around the end of July, is bell heather.

Most of the common heather you’ll see in the Yorkshire Dales is ling, flowering between August and September. The flowers grow on a dwarf shrub, often interspersed with bilberries. Look closer at the dry wriggly stems and they might remind you of something? They were once used to make witches' brooms or besoms. Ling was also used in the Dales to thatch roofs.

Heather is often considered a lucky charm. This idea came about when Queen Victoria's servant Mr. Brown spotted a piece of white heather and gave it to her for good luck. White heather is less common and is associated with stories of battle victories so that may account for its popularity. In Scotland heather has been used for centuries to make ale and other drinks. Heather tea is reputed to be good for coughs and soothing nerves. Heather's other uses include making a yellow dye. The dry stalks can be twisted together to create a sort of rope which doesn't deteriorate in sea water. It was once used to make primitive mattresses.

Nowadays honey from bees kept close to the heather-clad moorland is highly prized. Heather is also an important habitat for grouse and useful nest sites for ground-nesting birds.

Over time the heather becomes quite woody with fewer flowers. Every winter fire brigades receive call outs telling them the moor is on fire. Usually this is because gamekeepers burn small patches of older, stick heather to rejuvenate it, causing new green shoots to grow. The fires are supposed to only be lit when there are no nesting birds and when the soil is wet so the fires can be controlled. This is why you might have seen patches of moor that look like a patchwork quilt as they’re burnt in rotation. The new green shoots are also welcomed by sheep and other animals.

Image: Guy Carpenter

Settle to Carlisle Railway

Image: Thomas Jones The Dales Photographer

Some transport is about getting from A to B. Some is so dramatic, it's an attraction in itself.

With 20 viaducts, 14 tunnels and 72 miles of track, the Settle to Carlisle Railway is an incredible feat of engineering and one of the most scenic transport routes through England.

The Settle-Carlisle Railway line opened in 1876, after 6,000 men worked for 7 years to construct the railway line. This was achieved almost entirely by hand.

The line followed the natural pathways through the Pennines so some of its route isn’t entirely logical but it is very beautiful, travelling through outstanding scenery. By 1970 all local stations except Settle and Appleby had closed and by 1981 there was a plan to close the whole line, partly because Ribblehead viaduct was in a terrible state and considered too expensive to repair. It was eventually repaired, and now attracts thousands of visitors who come to marvel at its incredible awe-inspiring structure. After public protests and an increase in passengers, the government decided in 1989 that the line should stay open.

The very memorable journey starts in Settle, which is also the gateway to the Yorkshire Three Peaks of Pen-y-Ghent, Whernside and Ingleborough. You can still see the (now private) Station Master’s house and water tank.

The next station is Horton-in-Ribblesdale where a curiosity awaits you in the waiting shelter on the northbound platform: a lithophone. It’s a keyboard, a bit like a xylophone made from limestone from Horton Quarry. From there it’s onward to Ribblehead where can see the famous viaduct spanning Batty Moss. Ribblehead station now has a small, award-winning visitor centre where you can learn more about the history and importance of this iconic railway line.

Dent station is England’s highest mainline station, with amazing views over Dentdale. It's a little odd because it's several miles from Dent and feels like it’s been randomly stranded over 500 feet above the village! Garsdale near Hawes comes next, then Kirkby Stephen in the Eden Valley, Appleby and finally Carlisle.

You can download free audio guides with a commentary synced to what you’re seeing from the train window

Friends of the Settle-Carlisle Line organise guided walks from time to time, and you can also download some great self-guided walks from the Settle-Carlisle Railway website. Look out too for the Ride2Stride Festival, with a packed programme of walks, talks and music along the famous Settle-Carlisle railway line.

Castleberg

Image: Steve Amphlett

Imagine being so wealthy you could afford a large mansion with its own pleasure grounds (sounds so much grander than just a garden!), filled with exotic trees and plants. Castlebergh Plantation was part of the grounds of Town Head in Settle, owned by a succession of rich families.

One owner was so well-off he built a walkway from the house under the High Road so he could enjoy the gardens in complete peace and privacy.

Town Head was eventually demolished and the once beautiful grounds became neglected until the woodland was restored some years ago. However, the years of neglect were good in one way though: they created a haven for wildlife.

Town Head’s most famous inhabitant was Tot (short for Thomas) Lord, a well-known archaeologist who excavated Victoria, Jubilee and Attermire ‘bone caves’, discovering a harpoon head, skull of a bear, and mammoth bones.

Nowadays anyone can enjoy parts of what was once Castlebergh Plantation, by following the Tot Lord Trail out of Settle market place up Constitution Hill (you'll see why it's so named once you've puffed up it!), through the woodland and to the top of Castleberg Rock, a limestone knoll with fine views over Settle and beyond. You'll be able to enjoy a birds-eye view over the town, and see the Settle-Carlisle railway line which looks more like a model train set from that perspective.

Image: Steve Amphlett

Belted Galloways

Image: Paul Harris

If there were a competition for the most loved breed of livestock in the Yorkshire Dales, it would be a close run thing between iconic Swaledale sheep and distinctive Belted Galloway cattle.

Swaledales are certainly more numerous but the passion of any farmer who keeps Belties is pretty intense.

Belted Galloways are fine looking and instantly recognisable with their thick white belt around their midriff, contrasting with their (usually) black bodies. Some people call them Oreo cows!

Handsome as they are, this isn't really why they're so prized. Their contribution to biodiversity is celebrated. They can thrive on lower quality upland pastures, adapting to whatever is available. As they graze they break up the sward, which in turn creates a habitat for many species. One farmer told me their cowpats alone can support over two hundred different species of insect!

Their rugged constitution means Belties can lead a good natural outdoor life, grazing on the hills all year round. They have a lovely thick curly coat, perfect to protect them from any harsh Dales weather, keeping them warm and deflecting moisture. I love that the long hair around their ears is said to prevent frostbite! They mature slowly, can live longer than many other breeds, make good mothers and have a good immune system.

They are naturally 'polled' so don't have any horns and have a docile nature, making them easier to handle. It's said that when cattle were driven long distances to markets, using the old drovers' routes, the Scottish drovers liked to have at least one Belted Galloway in their herd so they could see where their cattle were in the dark!

If you'd like to learn more about Belties, and perhaps stay where they're a much loved part of the farm, take a look at the accommodation run by the Heseltine family at Hill Top Farm by Malham or stay with Christine at her bed and breakfast In Nidderdale.

Brymor Ice Cream

Who doesn't love ice cream? Brymor have been making their real dairy ice cream for over 30 years so I'd say they've pretty much perfected it now. It's available through out the Yorkshire Dales but the very best place to eat it is where it's made: at High Jervaulx Farm, near Jervaulx Abbey. The staff there are unfailingly friendly and helpful. We've been going there for years and they've always been brilliant about my daughter's food allergies.

There are drawbacks to visiting: over 25 different flavours mean it can be very difficult to choose a favourite.

Alongside the usual strawberry, chocolate and vanilla there are some exotic-sounding delicacies like the award-winning Black Cherry Whim Wham and Yorkshire-themed specialities such as Rhubarb Crumble, and Riggwelter (a Black Sheep beer named after sheep that can't get up) Raisin Ripple.

The secret to Brymor's long success is clear to see in neighbouring fields. Gorgeous pedigree Guernsey cows graze the lush grass and produce very creamy whole milk, that's then combined with double cream and good quality flavourings.

The curious name Brymor comes from the founder of the business, Bryan Moore who diversified into ice cream making when milk quotas were cut. Since then many new flavours have been introduced and the business has upgraded.

It's an excellent visit for families with young children. Adults can enjoy leisurely licking their ice creams in the parlour or outdoor seating area, and children can make full use of the play area. In summer they love to use the wooden climbing frame, rope bridge and tyre swings and on cooler days can go into the heated indoor play area with a bouncy castle, sand pit and giant Jenga.

Brymor attracts visitors through out the year. Even on a cold winter's day you'll find people tucking into the ice cream. It's a good place for dogs too: they now sell Frozzy's dog yoghurt. s

A Swaledale secret garden

It's a wonderful feeling to step away from the world and into a special little haven. Reeth is stunning, one of those places where you find layer upon layer of beauty.

One of my favourite little spots is missed by many who're perhaps understandably distracted by the Ice Cream Parlour, pubs, or Swaledale Museum.

Hudson House stands proud on the edge of the green, and offers visitor information and a programme of changing exhibitions in the Orchard Gallery.

To the side is a gate that leads to a little patch of paradise - the Orchard and community garden.

This lovely little retreat is open free of charge (donations welcome) all year round. It isn't very big, but it does have variety.

Hudson House is at the heart of the Swaledale Festival, hosting numerous events, but most of the time it's simply a beautiful tranquil spot.

You can sit and enjoy the peace and birdlife on one of the benches, or wander and notice the sculptures dotted about the place, some half hidden by overhanging foliage. The longer you rest, the more you'll gradually notice.

The borders are full of well-established perennials and the kind of cottage garden flowers our grandparents would have grown.

The 'hot' border is full of brightly coloured flowers such as penstemon and geraniums, attracting bees and butterflies, while the 'cool' border uses white and blue campanula and delphinium to create a peaceful, more muted area.

There are several apple and pear trees, next to a small wildflower meadow, similar to those on farms through out Swaledale and Arkengarthdale.

In a building that was once the Old Privy is a small exhibition telling of the history of the site, how the garden was created and what you can see now.

The building used to be a bank, with a very over-grown garden so it's remarkable what the community group volunteers have achieved.

Once you've enjoyed the garden, you might like to treat yourself to an ice cream in the nearby Parlour, browse in Fleece which is full of locally handmade items.

You could also enjoy a treat from Two Dales Bakery, look around Scenic View Gallery or simply sit and enjoy a drink or meal in the garden of Burgoyne Hotel, drinking in the incredible view.

Cricket

When we were little, one of our greatest treats was to go to a nearby village to watch the cricket on a sunny Sunday afternoon. Of course in those days it was always sunny and the days were much longer...

The sound of ball on bat, rounds of applause and gentle cheers, together with the sight of all the cricket whites are forever bound in my mind with some other associations.

Cricket meant sitting with my parents and sister to watch the quintessentially English game, in a gorgeous village.

It also meant not actually sitting for very long, getting sidetracked by the expanse of very green grass that was cut to the perfect length to practice cart-wheels and roly-polies. It meant paddling in the ice cold stream next to the cricket pitch, accompanied by "don't go too far" warnings from parents. Best of all, it meant lemonade and a packet of crisps from the pub overlooking the village green where the cricket was played.

The Yorkshire Dales have some pretty perfect cricket pitches. I can't vouch for the quality of the wicket but there are some wonderful settings. Viewed through the eyes of a visitor to England, cricket is at once charming and confusing. I still like the rather cheesy “Rules of cricket as explained to a foreign visitor”, an anonymous explanation seen on souvenir tea towels: You have two sides, one out in the field and one in. Each man that's in the side that's in, goes out, and when he's out, he comes in and the next man goes in until he's out. When they are all out the side that's out comes in and the side that's been in goes out and tries to get those coming in out. Sometimes you get men still in and not out. When both sides have been in and out including the not-outs, that's the end of the game”.

Cricket's traditionally a summer sport, but I was intrigued to learn there are those who apparently love it so much they place in Winter, even in snow. This is the case for cricketers from Appletreewick and Malhamdale who have an 'annual Winter tour'. I don't think it's a long tour, possibly limited to one trip through the Dales, and quite a long, warming visit to a pub afterwards, but the theory's there!

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This independent not-for-profit website was created using recommendations from Dales insiders' - people who live in, and love the Yorkshire Dales.

Copyright Susan Briggs 2020
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Image; Guy Carpenter

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