Meet Basil. There'a a Basil or Betty in every village in the Dales, unsung heroes, quietly doing their bit to secure the future of essential buildings and activities. 

At some point every Dales village needs to raise funds, whether it’s for repairs to the church roof, village hall, or community group. Many different and creative activities take place, from festivals to village fetes, but there’s rarely a month without a raffle or tombola. That’s when Basil or Betty shine, quietly and without fuss. 
 
In every village there’s someone who knows where the raffle books are, who has a spare book ready just in case. This person usually has their own special basket for putting the raffle tickets in, ready for the draw. They have a system for folding up the tickets nice and tight, lightning fast when there’s a queue to buy them. They have infinite patience when it comes to encouraging people to give prizes or helping winners pick a prize.

They’re the ones who can remember whether you put the 0s or another number into the tombola barrel. They remember how the numbers go on the prizes. When an event takes place, they’re poised and ready to deal with the queue, knowing the tombola is always one of the most popular events. They probably organised the making and purchase of the village tombola barrel years ago too. 
 
Basil is our local King of the Raffle and Tombola. Unfailingly cheerful and fun to be with, he presides over each event. He has a sideline too as the Keeper and Teller of Many Local Stories, winding stories that cut across decades and dynasties. I often wonder how many thousands of pounds he must have raised over the years for so many different causes? How many tickets has he sold, how many chirpy conversations has he had as a result of his task?

So this is just a quick thank you to the Basil or Betty in every Dales village. The church roof, the local clubs, the children, the adults you’ve helped to support over the years appreciate you.
 
If you’re a visitor to the Dales and see an event with a raffle or tombola, please dig deep, buy plenty of tickets and have a chat.
 
As I write this, I've reflected on the prizes I’ve won. There are certain ‘gifts’ that appear at each event, that are won and then maybe re-donated to the next event, re-appearing regularly until they finally find a lucky owner who truly appreciates them. There are other prizes that can seem incredibly generous, perhaps guiltily donated by some-one who actually meant to bake a cake for the sale and ran out of time. And then there are the prizes that are just a little bizarre, maybe retrieved from the back of a cupboard somewhere and hastily added to the donation pile. I think my oddest win ever was a huge bottle of Head and Shoulders dandruff shampoo – for greasy hair…

I also wondered about the origin of the word 'tombola'. It means 'somersault 'in Italian which makes sense when you think of the tombola barrel. It was the name of board game in Southern Italy and a lotto game in Northern Italy, and was probably brought to England by Italian emigrees. 

Some transport is about getting from A to B. Some is so dramatic, it's an attraction in itself.

With 20 viaducts, 14 tunnels and 72 miles of track, the Settle to Carlisle Railway is an incredible feat of engineering and  one of the most scenic transport routes through England. 
 
The Settle-Carlisle Railway line opened in 1876,  after 6,000 men worked for 7 years to construct the railway line. This was achieved almost entirely by hand.
 
The line followed the natural pathways through the Pennines so some of its route isn’t entirely logical but it is very beautiful, travelling through outstanding scenery. By 1970 all local stations except Settle and Appleby had closed and by 1981 there was a plan to close the whole line, partly because Ribblehead viaduct was in a terrible state and considered too expensive to repair. It was eventually repaired, and now attracts thousands of visitors who come to marvel at its incredible awe-inspiring structure. After public protests and an increase in passengers, the government decided in 1989 that the line should stay open.

The very memorable journey starts in Settle, which is also the gateway to the Yorkshire Three Peaks of Pen-y-Ghent, Whernside and Ingleborough. You can still see the (now private) Station Master’s house and water tank.
 
The next station is Horton-in-Ribblesdale where a curiosity awaits you in the waiting shelter on the northbound platform: a lithophone. It’s a keyboard, a bit like a xylophone made from limestone from Horton Quarry. From there it’s onward to Ribblehead where can see the famous viaduct spanning Batty Moss. Ribblehead station now has a small, award-winning visitor centre where you can learn more about the history and importance of this iconic railway line.

Dent station is England’s highest mainline station, with amazing views over Dentdale. It's a little odd because it's several miles from Dent and feels like it’s been randomly stranded over 500 feet above the village! Garsdale near Hawes comes next, then Kirkby Stephen in the Eden Valley, Appleby and finally Carlisle. 
 
You can download free audio guides with a commentary synced to what you’re seeing from the train window

Friends of the Settle-Carlisle Line organise guided walks from time to time, and you can also download some great self-guided walks from the Settle-Carlisle Railway website. Look out too for the Ride2Stride Festival, with a packed programme of walks, talks and music along the famous Settle-Carlisle railway line.

Imagine being so wealthy you could afford a large mansion with its own pleasure grounds (sounds so much grander than just a garden!), filled with exotic trees and plants. Castlebergh Plantation was part of the grounds of Town Head in Settle, owned by a succession of rich families.

One owner was so well-off he built a walkway from the house under the High Road so he could enjoy the gardens in complete peace and privacy.
 
Town Head was eventually demolished and the once beautiful grounds became neglected until the woodland was restored some years ago. However, the years of neglect were good in one way though: they created a haven for wildlife.
 
Town Head’s most famous inhabitant was Tot (short for Thomas) Lord, a well-known archaeologist who excavated Victoria, Jubilee and Attermire ‘bone caves’, discovering a harpoon head, skull of a bear, and mammoth bones. 

Nowadays anyone can enjoy parts of what was once Castlebergh Plantation, by following the Tot Lord Trail out of Settle market place up Constitution Hill (you'll see why it's so named once you've puffed up it!), through the woodland and to the top of Castleberg Rock, a limestone knoll with fine views over Settle and beyond. You'll be able to enjoy a birds-eye view over the town, and see the Settle-Carlisle railway line which looks more like a model train set from that perspective. 

If there were a competition for the most loved breed of livestock in the Yorkshire Dales, it would be a close run thing between iconic Swaledale sheep and distinctive Belted Galloway cattle. 

Swaledales are certainly more numerous but the passion of any farmer who keeps Belties is pretty intense. 

Belted Galloways are fine looking and instantly recognisable with their thick white belt around their midriff, contrasting with their (usually) black bodies. Some people call them Oreo cows!

Handsome as they are, this isn't really why they're so prized. Their contribution to biodiversity is celebrated. They can thrive on lower quality upland pastures, adapting to whatever is available. As they graze they break up the sward, which in turn creates a habitat for many species. One farmer told me their cowpats alone can support over two hundred different species of insect!  

Their rugged constitution means Belties can lead a good natural outdoor life, grazing on the hills all year round. They have a lovely thick curly coat, perfect to protect them from any harsh Dales weather, keeping them warm and deflecting moisture. I love that the long hair around their ears is said to prevent frostbite! They mature slowly, can live longer than many other breeds, make good mothers and have a good immune system. 

They are naturally 'polled' so don't have any horns and have a docile nature, making them easier to handle. It's said that when cattle were driven long distances to markets, using the old drovers' routes, the Scottish drovers liked to have at least one Belted Galloway in their herd so they could see where their cattle were in the dark!

If you'd like to learn more about Belties, and perhaps stay where they're a much loved part of the farm, take a look at the accommodation run by the Heseltine family at Hill Top Farm by Malham or stay with Christine at her bed and breakfast In Nidderdale. 

Who doesn't love ice cream? Brymor have been making their real dairy ice cream for over 30 years so I'd say they've pretty much perfected it now. It's available through out the Yorkshire Dales but the very best place to eat it is where it's made: at High Jervaulx Farm, near Jervaulx Abbey. The staff there are unfailingly friendly and helpful. We've been going there for years and they've always been brilliant about my daughter's food allergies. 

There are drawbacks to visiting: over 25 different flavours mean it can be very difficult to choose a favourite.

Alongside the usual strawberry, chocolate and vanilla there are some exotic-sounding delicacies like the award-winning Black Cherry Whim Wham and Yorkshire-themed specialities such as Rhubarb Crumble, and Riggwelter (a Black Sheep beer named after sheep that can't get up) Raisin Ripple. 

The secret to Brymor's long success is clear to see in neighbouring fields. Gorgeous pedigree Guernsey cows graze the lush grass and produce very creamy whole milk, that's then combined with double cream and good quality flavourings.

The curious name Brymor comes from the founder of the business, Bryan Moore who diversified into ice cream making when milk quotas were cut. Since then many new flavours have been introduced and the business has upgraded.

It's an excellent visit for families with young children. Adults can enjoy leisurely licking their ice creams in the parlour or outdoor seating area, and children can make full use of the play area. In summer they love to use the wooden climbing frame, rope bridge and tyre swings and on cooler days can go into the heated indoor play area with a bouncy castle, sand pit and giant Jenga. 

Brymor attracts visitors through out the year. Even on a cold winter's day you'll find people tucking into the ice cream. It's a good place for dogs too: they now sell Frozzy's dog yoghurt. s

The borders are full of well-established perennials and the kind of cottage garden flowers our grandparents would have grown.

​The 'hot' border is full of brightly coloured flowers such as penstemon and geraniums, attracting bees and butterflies, while the 'cool' border uses white and blue campanula and delphinium to create a peaceful, more muted area. 

There are several apple and pear trees, next to a small wildflower meadow, similar to those on farms through out Swaledale and Arkengarthdale. ​

In a building that was once the Old Privy is a small exhibition telling of the history of the site, how the garden was created and what you can see now.

The building used to be a bank, with a very over-grown garden so it's remarkable what the community group volunteers have achieved. 

​Once you've enjoyed the garden, you might like to treat yourself to an ice cream in the nearby Parlour, browse in Fleece which is full of locally handmade items.

​You could also enjoy a treat from Two Dales Bakery, look around Scenic View Gallery or simply sit and enjoy a drink or meal in the garden of Burgoyne Hotel, drinking in the incredible view. 

When we were little, one of our greatest treats was to go to a nearby village to watch the cricket on a sunny Sunday afternoon. Of course in those days it was always sunny and the days were much longer...

The sound of ball on bat, rounds of applause and gentle cheers, together with the sight of all the cricket whites are forever bound in my mind with some other associations.

Cricket meant sitting with my parents and sister to watch the quintessentially English game, in a gorgeous village.

It also meant not actually sitting for very long, getting sidetracked by the expanse of very green grass that was cut to the perfect length to practice cart-wheels and roly-polies. It meant paddling in the ice cold stream next to the cricket pitch, accompanied by "don't go too far" warnings from parents. Best of all, it meant lemonade and a packet of crisps from the pub overlooking the village green where the cricket was played. 

The Yorkshire Dales have some pretty perfect cricket pitches. I can't vouch for the quality of the wicket but there are some wonderful settings. Viewed through the eyes of a visitor to England, cricket is at once charming and confusing. I still like the rather cheesy “Rules of cricket as explained to a foreign visitor”, an anonymous explanation seen on souvenir tea towels: You have two sides, one out in the field and one in. Each man that's in the side that's in, goes out, and when he's out, he comes in and the next man goes in until he's out. When they are all out the side that's out comes in and the side that's been in goes out and tries to get those coming in out. Sometimes you get men still in and not out. When both sides have been in and out including the not-outs, that's the end of the game”.

Cricket's traditionally a summer sport, but I was intrigued to learn there are those who apparently love it so much they place in Winter, even in snow. This is the case for cricketers from Appletreewick and Malhamdale who have an 'annual Winter tour'. I don't think it's a long tour, possibly limited to one trip through the Dales, and quite a long, warming visit to a pub afterwards, but the theory's there!

One of the many reasons I love living in the Yorkshire Dales is the wonderful sense of community.

It's something visitors notice too - the sense that people look after each other and really care for this wonderful area.

At the heart of every Dales community is an army of volunteers, from young school children going to sing at an old folks' home, to people like my mother who's 79 but actively involved in helping others who're older or less healthy, volunteering in the local community office and baking hundreds of scones a year for various events. 

Where-ever you are in the Yorkshire Dales, what-ever time of day, it's highly likely that not far away at least one person will be volunteering, and making life better in some way. Many of the roles fulfilled by volunteers are invisible. You might not always see the people who clean their local church or village hall. You probably won't know whether the staff in libraries are volunteers or paid staff. Some are more visible: making cakes for a fund-raising sale, collecting for some good cause, or stewarding an event. 

You may be surprised at the extent of the community services run by volunteers and communities. National media often highlight Hawes as one of the most self-sufficient places in Britain. There are many examples of similar activities around the Dales but Hawes is certainly a prime example. Councillor John Blackie* has been a huge influence, developing a local partnership to maintain a vibrant community. He spearheaded the take-over of the Hawes Petrol Station to save it from closure. Now it's run by part-time staff and volunteers. The Little White Bus was launched in 2011, and now has a fleet of 10 minibuses, relying on over 50 volunteer drivers. Some community-led services arise out of necessity, but are possible because those initiating them know they'll have support from others. 

Volunteers are at the heart of many community events, putting on countless country shows, festivals and other events. They do it because they want to support their village hall, church, school or other organisation but sometimes it's for services they're unlikely to use themselves such as Mountain Rescue.

Volunteers benefit too - they develop skills, and friendships through these activities, and feel spurred on to do more, creating ever stronger links within their community. Over time people become known for a particular skill - Ian will help with the sign boards, Mary will bake the scones, Jim's good at organising the play. Participants in community events have their own role too - Beccy never says no to a car boot sale, the vicar's known for liking an extra slice of cake...

The sense of community is instilled from a young age, with children recognising and greeting their neighbours and becoming part of their lives. When I was little my mother taught me to always say smile and say hello to people, especially if they were older. That smile and greeting may be someone's only social interaction that day. Those hellos lead to conversations and friendships slowly grow. I passed on that advice to my daughter who's now 18 and it feels like she has dozens of grand parents. So many people still ask what she's doing and how she is, remembering her from when she saw them on her way to and from primary school.

There's a lovely collective memory in communities like ours, with space for each kind of personality and way of looking at life. I think there's a tolerance not always present in towns, because each person is known as an individual not just a label. As people age and can no longer do what they once did, the community remembers, and recognises it's now their turn to return favours and take care of those who've done so much. 

The sense of community is incredibly uplifting, but it needs feeding and encouraging so if you're visiting and see a collection box, a cake sale, an event please do support it. 

* I planned a different blog today but decided to write this one because John Blackie died yesterday (13th July). You can hear all about him and what he achieved on this podcast. I hope his legacy is that people will recognise the difference individuals can make, and step up to volunteer in any way they can. 

Fifty years ago, the West Riding group of the Ramblers' Association decided they wanted to create a new walking route.

After some discussion it was decided that it would start in Ilkley and much of the route should follow the River Wharfe, right up to its source on Cam Fell.

​That walk would have ended in the middle of the Yorkshire Dales National Park, leaving walkers either stranded or turning back on themselves, so instead the route was extended to follow the River Dee through Dentdale, and then on through Westmorland to end at Lake Windermere.

After many meetings with many organisations and much discussion about recording footpaths, creating signage and rights of way by some very committed volunteers, the Dales Way was born. 

What makes the Dales Way so cherished?

It's an 80 mile long route which is well signposted and relatively easy. The Dales Way Association suggest it's an ideal introduction for less experienced walkers to long distance walking. 

The route passes through some truly gorgeous parts of the Yorkshire Dales: Bolton Abbey, Burnsall, Linton, Grassington, Kettlewell, Buckden, Hubberholme, Cowgill, Dent and Sedbergh before moving on to the Lake District National Park. ​

Many of us love the tranquility and wildlife to be found by a river or stream, and that's perhaps one of the reasons that the Dales Way is so popular. It's effectively a series of river walks. Some of the tracks it follows are ancient routes, used by walkers, drovers and traders for centuries.

Rivers are calming and forever changing, different in every season.

The Dales Way is rich in geological features and birdlife - expect to spot kingfishers, dippers, oystercatchers, and curlews. 
​

In May 1969 Tom Wilcock and Colin Speakman created the first Dales Way leaflet, eventually leading to Colin Speakman's publication of a guidebook called The Dales Way originally published by the Dalesman.

It's become a very popular guide to the beautiful riverside route, and is now in its 11th edition, published by Skyware Press.

I wonder how many feet have trodden this beautiful route over the last 50 years, probably not even aware of all the work that went into its creation?

If you love the Dales Way you might be interested in joining the Dales Way Association. ​