I don't really believe in ghosts but I've had several ghostly experiences in the Yorkshire Dales...

The first time was about 15 years ago when we first decided to move back to Yorkshire. That's not why we decided to move - it just happened during the same weekend! We were staying near the Bolton Abbey Estate, in Beamsley Hospital, a beautiful 16th/17th century Landmark Trust property, once home to impoverished gentlewomen. It's a former almshouse built in an octagonal shape, with a series of rooms set around a chapel. To get from the bedrooms to the kitchen and lounge area you have to walk through the chapel which still has an ancient Bible and the feeling of a church. The black Labrador we had with us wasn't so keen on walking through the chapel but we ignored that. However as I walked through the chapel after our first night there, my then 3 year old daughter matter of factly said, "this is where the noisy ladies were". I asked her what she meant and she replied, "the ones who kept talking at night and waking me up". I pretended to ignore it but the following evening after we'd put her to bed she called to ask me to "tell the ladies in that funny room to stop talking". Make of that what you will. It is a lovely place to stay whether the women folk chatter in the chapel or not...

We sold our house and eventually found a house to buy but we couldn't move in straight away so we rented a holiday cottage for six weeks. It was lovely and cosy except for one spot where we all thought there was a cold draught between the bedroom and bathroom. There was a sort of balcony looking down into an open hallway. We looked for draughts but couldn't find an obvious source and assumed it was just the larger space. After we'd moved out a local woman asked me if I'd liked living in the cottage. She was surprised when I said yes and commented she'd have hated to live where someone had hung themselves only a couple of years earlier. 

We moved into our seventeenth century mill and did lots of work. It felt like a friendly house, very comforting and welcoming. Except for one archway in a bit of the building we don't use much. I just felt a bit "shuddery" when I went through it but thought maybe it was because that part of the house needed more renovation and care. Then other people commented on the peculiar feel of that one spot. That part of the building had been let out to various people in the past and when I asked them if they'd ever had any strange experiences, without prompting they commented on the archway. It didn't really bother any of us, but it did feel odd. I couldn't find any history of hangings, or other grisly goings-on so tried to ignore it but even after re-decoration that spot continued to feel uncomfortable.

I happened to be sitting next to our local vicar one day at an event so very casually asked him if vicars actually do exorcise buildings or is that just something in horror films? He said that they prefer not to call it an 'exorcism' but they do house 'blessings'. The vicar asked me why I'd asked and when I explained his response made me think such situations are actually quite common. We talked about the exact spot in the house and speculated on the reasons. We agreed that if it continued to bother us, he'd come to the house. A couple of days later I realised I'd gone back and forth through that archway and it felt completely different. Can a vicar thinking about a troubled spirit really make a difference? It didn't really make sense to me but the feeling really has gone. 

It didn't end there though. Upstairs in the house is a lamp that suddenly started to switch itself on every night. For a little while we all assumed other members of the family had left it on or were playing tricks, but then we went round the house switching everything off before a holiday. As we arrived home in the dark, a light was shining. Yes, it was on again. Now when we go into the room and switch it off, we always smile - what ever is causing the light to come on feels friendly and up-lifting. I still can't say I believe in ghosts but I suppose it's natural for a very old house to have different kinds of history within its stones.

In the mood for a very pleasant pootle? I was never entirely sure I was using 'pootle' correctly but just looked it up and it does indeed mean to 'travel or move in a leisurely manner' which is exactly what the Wensleydale Railway does. Running from Leeming to the small Georgian market town of Bedale, to Leyburn and then on to Redmire, it's not a long or dramatic journey but is very pleasant. It only exists thanks to a team of very committed volunteers with ambitions to relay the track and extend the line further into the Yorkshire Dales. 

Wensleydale Railway isn't a commuter line - it's used by visitors who welcome the chance for a little pootle, looking out at the surrounding countryside. Early Spring is a good time to travel as you can see more before the trees and vegetation cover some of the views. The line is now mainly a heritage diesel line but they also put on steam services on selected weekends and for special events. 

There's much excitement at the moment about the advent of the Tornado (LNER Peppercorn Class A1 60163 Tornado for those who like to be precise about such things) hauling a passenger service in February. I think this is a newly built version of a series of engines originally built in the 1940s but scrapped in the 1960s when diesel trains became more popular. Tornado will haul one train on the 15th of February, 2 Trains on the 16th and and on the 17th February. They expect high demand so early booking is strongly encouraged. If you miss out on this event, look out for their other specials such as the gin train!

What makes a perfect outing with family and friends? I think there are several key ingredients:

• - a walk so everyone can get out into the fresh air but not so far that those with little legs start to moan;
• - somewhere with "ooh look at that" fine views;
• - a chance to learn something along the way;
• - a good cafe at the end. 

On these bright sunny winter days you can find all these ingredients in one place: Coldstones Cut.

There's no point in my trying to describe it to you (but I will!).

How ever many words I use, will fail to convey its stark beauty, the 360 degree views, the surprise of its setting and construction, the amazing fact that someone had an audacious idea and didn't rest until it became a reality. So the only answer is to go and see it for yourself. I did try to drag a friend there on a windy day when the sleet was horizontal - that trip wasn't a success and she still talks about my folly. But on every other occasion I've taken friends and family, they've been awestruck. It's worth waiting for a clear day, and if you have a hangover so much the better - you'll discover a cure. The combination of Coldstones Cut + coffee and cake afterwards at nearby Toft Gate Barn Cafe is a cracking discovery. 

So after all this hype you may well be wondering where? It's on the B6265 a couple of miles out of Pateley Bridge on the way to Grassington. You can see it from the road but probably wouldn't know it was really there but for the sign and small car park. Once parked, you'll be able to read more about the history of the area and see Toft Gate Lime Kiln on the left (worth a wander) and then you can head up to the sculpture on the hill which looks like some kind of flat fortress from the bottom. It's not a particularly long walk but it is a steep climb. The first thing you'll notice are the enormous stones used for this gargantuan artwork, and then there's something a bit peculiar - tarmac, traffic bollards, a mini roundabout and no parking yellow paint. On a high hill almost 1400 feet above sea level in the Nidderdale countryside, in a spot no car could ever reach. Yes, as I said it's a bit odd, and definitely thought provoking! Continue down this "lane" and you'll have three options: following a narrow turning passage to the top for incredible panoramic views from the right or the left or continue for a very different view. There are panels at the top helping you understand the vistas, fascinating in themselves. 

If I tell you that in the other direction, Coldstones Cut overlooks a limestone quarrying operation you'll probably think it sounds unpleasantly industrial but go and see for yourself. It's spectacular and could easily be the setting for an exciting episode of Scooby Doo. 

I can't help thinking that some of the reactions of first time visitors once they've made the climb must be quite similar to those to Stonehenge. But Coldstones Cut is far less busy and with much better views. And then there's the cafe... Walk a little down the hill (there's a path cutting across the field so you don't have to use the road - make sure dogs are on leads) to Toft Gate Barn Cafe. This is a stunningly good barn conversion, beautifully done so it keeps some of its original character and showcases old farm implements. Food and drink at the cafe is excellent, with friendly staff who're eager to please. You may well spot Farmer Chris as he grabs a coffee before returning to his 40 pedigree Limousin cattle and 100 Beulah sheep. Owner Caroline Prince is more likely to be found overseeing the fantastic and imaginative cakes and food in the cafe. 

When it opened several years ago, the Yorkshire Post described Coldstones Cut as the answer to the Angel of the North, but actually it's better. For one thing, it's not on a busy motorway, there's more to see, and it's an even more interesting construction. The original idea came from Biddy Noakes who the Yorkshire Post described as "one of those irrepressible women who Gets The Job Done". They got that bit right! Biddy heard that the quarry was going to create a viewing platform so she approached owners Hanson to suggest they do something really special and ambitious. After securing funding from a variety of sources, sculptor Andrew Sabin was suggested as the artist who might be able to create this enormous work of art. He'd already had experience of creating major works but this one will surely be standing in a few hundred years. 

Coldstones Cut is hard to sum up in words so maybe I'll make do with just one word: go!

Lake Semerwater is well known to those who live in and around Wensleydale but a surprise find for many.

Hidden in tiny Raydale, Semerwater is the largest natural glacial lake in this area and much loved by walkers and water sports enthusiasts. There's a circular footpath from the lake foreshore. Maps are available from Low Blean Farm.

Semerwater attracts countless photographers and artists, including Turner who visited and painted here in 1816.

Folk singers and poets have seized on some of the legends associated with the lake. Sir William Watson  penned the Ballad of Semerwater. The story goes that a beggar visited a thriving city and asked for food and shelter but was rejected. He was finally given both at a small nearby cottage but in the morning he put a curse on the city: “Semerwater rise, Semerwater sink and bury the town all save the house where they gave me meat and drink.” It's hard to think which city this might have been for it's quite remote, but it is said that a village lays on the bottom of the lake and occasionally you may hear the sounds of bells ringing from its ancient church. The cottage in the story is reputedly at Low Blean. There are other stories of giants fighting the devil across the lake, throwing stones at each other. 

Semerwater hosts a few events each year including the Semerwater Swim and Wensleydale Triathlon. 

The River Bain, one of England's shortest named rivers meanders from Semerwater just three miles from here to join the River Ure. It's short but powerful enough once it arrives at Bainbridge to turn an Archimedes Screw and produce enough power for many of the houses in the village. 

A recent survey declared Richmondshire (which covers a large swathe of the Yorkshire Dales) second best place to live in the UK (Orkney came first). Apparently reasons given were excellent personal wellbeing scores, low crime rates, little traffic - and a high pub to people ratio! Doesn't that sound good?

I can't tell you exactly how many pubs we have, but the number that still continue to serve happy customers in the Dales is encouraging, especially when so many are closing elsewhere.

The popularity of our pubs is probably helped by the ever growing number of beers, gins and even whiskies being produced here.

You'd probably expect to find plenty of "muddy boots welcome" pubs in the Yorkshire Dales but many visitors are surprised by the quality of food now served. This has meant some pubs feel more like fine dining restaurants but a reassuring number definitely still have a corner where you'll find a group of older men with very few teeth ready to share their tales and insight into the local area in return for a beer. 

There are pubs which are firm favourites in the Winter thanks to their open fires, pubs which are much-loved in Summer thanks to their wonderful outdoor seating areas. Some pubs are known for the amazing welcome they offer to dogs, with at least a couple offering special non-alcoholic dog beer or ice-cream.

Music is a particular feature of some pubs, whether this means welcoming Friday night fiddlers, feeding singing revellers after an agricultural show, or putting on their special events.

Some pubs feel like they're stranded in time, still plying their trade as a welcome refuge from the world and important stopping points before a long climb over yet another hill.

We've gathered together a list of pubs recommended by locals and visitors on this page. If there are any that you think or missing do let me know!

Were you in the Tufty Club? I'm not quite sure why children were encouraged to wear badges with a red squirrel on them as part of a road safety awareness campaign many years ago but squirrel signs are now used in a very different way on some stretches of Yorkshire Dales roads. You'll see them on the wonderfully winding route between Hawes and Sedbergh, asking drivers to slow down and preserve the local red squirrel population.

The National Park has spearheaded a campaign to preserve the red squirrel population. Rangers and volunteers have been an important part of the red squirrel conservation programme which is particularly strong around Sedbergh, Dentdale and Hawes. Surveys take place across the Dales in Spring, using cameras to record photos of squirrels feeding at specially positioned feeder boxes. Thanks to much activity and fundraising for the conservation project, the population now seems stable.

Red squirrels camouflage well in the wooded areas so they aren't easy to see but there is a relatively easy way to spot and photograph them in the heart of the Widdale Red Squirrel Reserve, at Snaizeholme where there's a viewing area. Squirrels visit feeders in a woodland clearing so there's a good chance you'll see them there. The Little White Bus runs a service from the Dales Countryside Museum (book in advance) to the Snaizeholme drop off point. After that you can follow a well-marked route to the viewing area.

You may not be a member of the Tufty Club anymore but you can still buy a red squirrel pin badge and make a donation towards red squirrel conservation in the Yorkshire Dales National Park.  

Keen photographers may like to go one step further and book Dales photographer Paul Fowie on a one-one workshop or book England’s only purpose-built Squirrel photography hide located near Hawes in the Yorkshire Dales. The main woodland hide can accommodate up to four people and offers a fantastic opportunity to see and photograph squirrels at close range in a natural setting. The hide has been specially designed to enable comfortable photography with windows offering views of perches on three sides. While there you may also spot roe deer and a plethora of woodland birds.

My earliest memory of the Pennine Way is hysterical laughter as my classmates and I struggled to clamber out of thigh-high mud in a bog near Edale. We'd been taken on a school day trip to walk the Pennine Way. I'm not sure how far anyone thought we'd get, especially as most of us were wearing plimsolls (the ones with stretchy panels in the front, not even lace-ups!). And those were the days of flappy, bulky, soggy anoraks so we were sodden too. I don't remember any maps.

​That was about ten years after the Pennine Way was created so maybe it was still a novelty and the teachers hadn't seen the need for any better equipment. It was well before any thoughts on health and safety. People still set out on the Pennine Way woefully ill-equipped and prepared but for the most part they do have a much better idea of what they're letting themselves in for. 

The Pennine Way became Britain's first National Trail in 1965. Today I found an article in a May 1942 copy of the then Yorkshire Dalesman. It reported on the founding of the Pennine Way Association in 1938 when it was agreed that a Pennine Way was desirable "in the national interest on the grounds of the physical and spiritual well-being of the youth of Britain." It was also agreed that "the wide, health-giving moorlands and high places of solitude, the features of natural beauty, and the places of historical interest along the Pennine Way give this route a special character and attractiveness which should be available for all time as a national heritage of the youth of the country and of all who feel the call of the hills and lonely places". 

Today's Pennine Way runs along England's backbone for 268 miles from Edale in the Peak District northwards to Kirk Yetholm, with some of the most stunning highlights in the Yorkshire Dales. Thanks to hi-tech outdoor clothing, maps, signposts, better paths, and plenty of excellent accommodation and pubs en route, your chances of completing at least a decent stretch of the Pennine Way are definitely higher than mine in the 1970s! You do need to be properly prepared, plan carefully and take advice from experts and guides who know the challenging terrain well. You might consider using a luggage transfer company to avoid carrying heavy back packs, or book with a walking tour company. If you'd like to walk all or a section of the Pennine Way, take a look at the National Trail website to plan in advance and find people and businesses to help you. 

Last week 35 year old vet, Jasmin Paris showed what can be done if you're fit, well-prepared and determined. She became the first woman to win the 268 mile Spine Race running the entire Pennine Way, beating her nearest male rival by 15 hours and setting a course record by 12 hours. Oh, and "feed stations" took on a new meaning since she was also expressing milk for her baby daughter. The entire race took her just 83 hours, sleeping barely three hours over three nights.

​There was one part of this incredible feat that I could have managed - the rules say you have to carry 3000 calories of snacks in your back pack...

If you head towards Campbells' excellent emporium in Leyburn market place, you'll spot a sign leading away from the town towards The Shawl.

It's an odd name so you'd be forgiven for not following its direction but then you'll miss out on some really fine views, a good walk, a fantastic playground (so good I don't think you need to bother to take children with you - why should they have all the fun?) and a great story.

The Shawl is a limestone outcrop above Leyburn from which you can enjoy panoramic views of Wensleydale and Penhill. You can follow the Shawl to Preston under Scar and eventually on to Castle Bolton. If the day is clear but the rain has fallen you may even hear the roar of of Aysgarth Falls. 

So what is the "Shawl"? There are those who insist it's an old word that means a shady hill and woodland.

Ask a local and you're likely to be told it relates to around 1568 when Mary Queen of Scots was imprisoned at Bolton Castle and lost her shawl. OK, so it's not the most exciting or complex story but it's the only one I can tell you about the Shawl.

Many of you will already know and love Linton, perhaps being most familiar with images of the Fountaine Inn or the three bridges over the beck. For me, Linton's real delights are the extra details that you only spot when you wander slowly. I’m not alone in appreciating the beauty of Linton. There's a sundial monument on the green that proudly declares it to be (in 1949) the loveliest village in the North of England. Imagine the sense of peace the judges must have felt when they visited Linton, just a few years after the horrors of the war.
 
You’ll immediately notice the three bridges over the beck: children particularly love the ancient clapper bridge and the tiny archway in the packhorse bridge. Close to the clapper bridge you'll see a building in a combination of Palladian and Georgian styles that seems a little grand for a Dales hamlet. 

The buildings are said to have been designed by John Vanbrugh, who was also architect of Castle Howard. One resident of the almshouses designed it wonderfully: “"It's paradise wi t'door locked."

​The other cottages feel more agricultural and in keeping with the scale of the village, where flax was once an important crop. ​

When you’ve finished wandering around Linton and the neighbouring area, the Fountaine Inn offers a warm welcome and good food.

They recently created a room ‘Sheila Bownas Studio’ to celebrate the work of this Linton artist who created patterns for Liberty and Marks and Spencer, often inspired by the views from her window in Linton. ​​

Please note: there is very little parking in Linton so it's best to park by the National Park offices in Grassington and to enjoy the very pleasant walk to Linton and back.