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Easby Abbey

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PictureEasby Abbey by Matt White
The Yorkshire Dales has such a wealth of incredible castles, listed buildings and abbeys that some of them are a little overshadowed. Most people have heard of Fountains Abbey, Bolton Abbey and Jervaulx Abbey and yet Easby Abbey is almost unknown. 

It lies on the fringes of the Yorkshire Dales, by the River Swale, close to the gorgeous historic town of Richmond. There's a beautiful, quite easy walk from Richmond Station (no-longer a station, but now a lovely converted building with a cinema, food businesses and art gallery) along the river to Easby Abbey. 

English Heritage describe Easby Abbey as 'one of the best preserved monasteries of the 12th century Premonstratensian order' (the white canons). It's thought to have stood since 1152 and although it's now in ruins you can still make out the gatehouse, dormitory and refectory. The church is still in use and has some rare 13th century wall paintings. 

Easby is a tiny community of less than 100 people so it's a beautifully tranquil spot in which to rest and reflect. If you enjoy visiting lesser known abbeys in lovely hidden locations, take a trip to see what is left of Coverham Abbey. 

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Settle Falconry

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PictureGuests meeting Breeze the Buzzard
Many of the best visitor attractions and activities in the Yorkshire Dales were started by people who are really passionate about their hobby or interest and simply want to share it with visitors. 

Their love of what they do shines out in every way, from how they greet their guests, to their enthusiastic emails and five star reviews. 


This is certainly the case for Kieren and David at Settle Falconry. They share images of their birds just as proudly as others pass around baby photos. If you have even the smallest interest in birds or maybe remember watching Kes all those years ago, a Bird of Prey experience at Settle Falconry will delight you. 

PictureHector the Indian Eagle Owl
You can choose from an hour's or half day experience. Group sizes are kept to a maximum of four people so you can really get up close to the birds of prey and learn about them from Kieren or David. 

Settle Falconry is based at the much-loved Elaine's farm tearoom in Feizor so you're sure of good refreshments nearby too. There's the added attraction of truly stunning surrounding countryside, so don't forget your camera.

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You'll be given a falconer's gauntlet to wear and taught the basics of holding a bird on your fist, having a chance to call the bird down to your glove several times.

If you want to enjoy an extended experience with a selection of birds of prey including hawks, buzzards, kestrels, falcons and hawks, take the half day option which ends with a walk with a free-flying Harris Hawks. 
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PictureBella the Lanner Falcon
David and Kieren aren't just passionate about falconry and birds of prey. They have 20 years' practical experience, which they love to pass on.

David became interested in birds when he was 5 and got his first bird at the age of 14 on his grandfather's farm.

​Kieren volunteered every weekend at another falconry centre until he became a full-time display falconer at 16. After working as an apprentice zoo keeper, David crossed the border from Lancashire and worked with Kieren until they decided to start the Settle Falconry in 2015. 

David and Kieren are
 also experienced in breeding and rearing falcons so have plenty of information to pass on to visitors. You need to book in advance so take a look at their website for more details.

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Heather

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PictureImage by Guy Carpenter
A large part of the upland areas in the Yorkshire Dales is moorland, open uncultivated land, often covered with heather.

​For much of the year you might not really notice it, and then it suddenly blooms and the whole landscape changes colour and feel. 
It’s a very hardy, wind-resistant plant so thrives on the open moorland, often living over 20 years, where nothing much else survives.
 
The first heather to bloom, around the end of July, is bell heather. 

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Most of the common heather you’ll see in the Yorkshire Dales is ling, flowering between August and September. The flowers grow on a dwarf shrub, often interspersed with bilberries. Look closer at the dry wriggly stems and they might remind you of something? They were once used to make witches' brooms or besoms. Ling was also used in the Dales to thatch roofs. 
 

Heather is often considered a lucky charm. This idea came about when Queen Victoria's servant Mr. Brown spotted a piece of white heather and gave it to her for good luck. White heather is less common and is associated with stories of battle victories so that may account for its popularity. In Scotland heather has been used for centuries to make ale and other drinks.  Heather tea is reputed to be good for coughs and soothing nerves. ​Heather's other uses include making a yellow dye. The dry stalks can be twisted together to create a sort of rope which doesn't deteriorate in sea water. It was once used to make primitive mattresses.

Nowadays h
oney from bees kept close to the heather-clad moorland is highly prized. Heather is also an important habitat for grouse and useful nest sites for ground-nesting birds.
 
Over time the heather becomes quite woody with fewer flowers. Every winter fire brigades receive call outs telling them the moor is on fire. Usually this is because gamekeepers burn small patches of older, stick heather to rejuvenate it, causing new green shoots to grow. The fires are supposed to only be lit when there are no nesting birds and when the soil is wet so the fires can be controlled. This is why you might have seen patches of moor that look like a patchwork quilt as they’re burnt in rotation. The new green shoots are also welcomed by sheep and other animals.

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Image: Guy Carpenter
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Settle to Carlisle Railway

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PictureImage: Thomas Jones The Dales Photographer
Some transport is about getting from A to B. Some is so dramatic, it's an attraction in itself.

With 20 viaducts, 14 tunnels and 72 miles of track, the Settle to Carlisle Railway is an incredible feat of engineering and  one of the most scenic transport routes through England. 
 
The Settle-Carlisle Railway line opened in 1876,  after 6,000 men worked for 7 years to construct the railway line. This was achieved almost entirely by hand.
 
The line followed the natural pathways through the Pennines so some of its route isn’t entirely logical but it is very beautiful, travelling through outstanding scenery. By 1970 all local stations except Settle and Appleby had closed and by 1981 there was a plan to close the whole line, partly because Ribblehead viaduct was in a terrible state and considered too expensive to repair. It was eventually repaired, and now attracts thousands of visitors who come to marvel at its incredible awe-inspiring structure. After public protests and an increase in passengers, the government decided in 1989 that the line should stay open.

The very memorable journey starts in Settle, which is also the gateway to the Yorkshire Three Peaks of Pen-y-Ghent, Whernside and Ingleborough. You can still see the (now private) Station Master’s house and water tank.
 
The next station is Horton-in-Ribblesdale where a curiosity awaits you in the waiting shelter on the northbound platform: a lithophone. It’s a keyboard, a bit like a xylophone made from limestone from Horton Quarry. From there it’s onward to Ribblehead where can see the famous viaduct spanning Batty Moss. Ribblehead station now has a small, award-winning visitor centre where you can learn more about the history and importance of this iconic railway line.

Dent station is England’s highest mainline station, with amazing views over Dentdale. It's a little odd because it's several miles from Dent and feels like it’s been randomly stranded over 500 feet above the village! Garsdale near Hawes comes next, then Kirkby Stephen in the Eden Valley, Appleby and finally Carlisle. 

 
You can download free audio guides with a commentary synced to what you’re seeing from the train window

Friends of the Settle-Carlisle Line organise guided walks from time to time, and you can also download some great self-guided walks from the Settle-Carlisle Railway website. Look out too for the Ride2Stride Festival, with a packed programme of walks, talks and music along the famous Settle-Carlisle railway line.

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West Burton

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If you were list all the desirable attributes for a picture-perfect Yorkshire Dales village, the list might for example include: village green, good pub, excellent walks, waterfall, and maybe a few extra features such as old stocks or market cross. 

Drive into West Burton in Bishopdale and you'll instantly see all these within a stones' throw of each other.

When some people sit down after a long day, they make a sort of satisfied 'ah...' sighing noise, as if that's their final act for the day before relaxing completely. If houses could sigh, I imagine the ones around West Burton's double village green would do exactly that. There's a wonderful sense of harmony in the village, oozing confidence and safe in the knowledge that it's one of the Yorkshire Dales' most beautiful and complete. 


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The Cauldron Falls are tucked away at the bottom of the village green, offering excitement after rain and tranquility in summer. Follow the footpath to climb the hill and you'll be rewarded with fine views

Alternatively stay in the valley bottom by Walden Beck and enjoy the walk up Walden, where the road ends. This is perhaps partly why West Burton has remained unspoilt - there's no through road, and the village feels pretty much complete in itself. From here it's a short walk to discover the 
rocket-ship, pepper-pot and 'guillotine'. 

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At the bottom of the village green, you'll find the Cat Pottery, a family enterprise, whole-heartedly dedicated to the business of creating ceramic, metallic and granite stone garden cats. 

On the green itself, spot the quoits, the old village stocks, and the market cross, dating back to the times when West Burton was the main market town for Bishopdale and Walden.

​Opposite is the Fox and Hounds, a popular pub serving good food. Walk a few paces down the road and look closely at the pavement - there are several stones inscribed with historical details about the village. I particularly like the one listing some of the professions of former inhabitants - 'druggist, leather maker, saddler, seamstress, draper, violin-maker...' really bringing alive the feel of a vibrant village doing well for itself. 

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River Wharfe

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One of the most popular areas of the Dales is Wharfedale, thanks in part to its many stunning villages and also its proximity to towns in West Yorkshire.

The River Wharfe winds (the origin of its name) its way through some of the Dales' best-known villages and acts as the boundary between North and West Yorkshire. 

The river flows for 65 miles before joining the River Ouse. Its source is in the centre of the Yorkshire Dales National Park - where Oughtershaw Beck and Green Field Beck meet in lovely Langstrothdale. From there it flows toward Hubberholme, home of the wonderful George Inn and landlord Ed who has the gift of remembering an astonishing number of names. 

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From there it's on to Buckden and then Kettlewell, which many people recognise from the Calendar Girls' film. It passes Kilnsey Park, an excellent place to visit to learn to fish, where you're almost guaranteed a catch. The market town of Grassington is also home to one of the Yorkshire Dales National Park's visitor centres where you can pick up books and leaflets about the area, and discover lovely walks such as the one to nearby Linton. Linton falls are a focal point for many visitors, worth going to see after a good downpour. ​​

After this the river Wharfe makes it way towards the popular picnic spot of Burnsall and then Appletreewick, which sounds totally different when a local pronounces it and is home to the Craven Arms which hosts ferret racing each year and has a superb cruck barn.

​As it flows through the 
Bolton Abbey Estate, there a chance to see The Strid waterfalls and to cross the river just as the monks did centuries ago, using the stepping stones. ​

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A wonderful way to experience Wharfedale is to walk the Dales Way, which follows the river Wharfe from Ilkley all the way to its source on Cam Fell.  

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A rocket ship, pepper pot & guillotine

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If you'd like to entice someone who says they don't like walking to join you on a gentle amble, you could intrigue them with the promise of showing them a rocket ship, a giant pepper pot and what could be (from a distance) a guillotine, all standing proud on a limestone outcrop in the Yorkshire Dales countryside.

Once you've climbed a small hill to get closer to them, and perhaps even 'boarded' the rocket ship, there's the additional reward of fine views towards Bolton Castle. 


As you've probably guessed, these three structures are not quite what they seem - they're all stone follies. 

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They are thought to have been built during the first half of the 19th century but no one seems to know who built them or exactly why. 

They stand guard over Sorrelsykes Park Hall, so it's likely a previous estate owner decided to build them. There was a time when country house owners built follies or ornamental features, just as a curiosity or maybe to show they had sufficient wealth to do something without any particular reason.

One theory is that they were built to draw the eye away from the spoils of a former lead mine nearby. Given when it was built, it's unlikely the builder intended the structure to look like a rocket ship but it gained that appearance because of the buttresses that seem to have been added to m
ake it more stable. 

It's thought the 'pepper pot' was at once time used for curing bacon. The third folly is often referred to as a gate but from a distance I think it looks like a guillotine. There used to be a fourth structure, built to resemble a romantic ruin but it became so genuinely ruinous it had to be removed. ​​

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Where are these remarkable features?

​Take the B6160 from Swinithwaite (near 
Berry's) in Wensleydale towards West Burton and you'll spot the rocket ship from the road. 

​A public footpath just before West Burton, signposted towards Flanders Hall, will take you up to the follies.  

You can climb inside the bottom of the 'rocket ship' and look up to the wooden floor above but turning around to look out over the dale is much more rewarding. 

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Kirkby Lonsdale

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The south western side of the Yorkshire Dales National Park is less well-known than other areas, but visitors are gradually starting to visit it following the extension of the National Park.

One of my favourite spots is the pretty market town of Kirkby Lonsdale. It's attractive and well-kept, thanks to some very green-fingered residents. 

It has a different feel, perhaps revelling in its more exotic location at the intersection of Yorkshire, Lancashire and the Lake District.


The collection of 17th and 18th century buildings, coach yards, cobbled lanes and passages all add to the very welcoming atmosphere of Kirkby Lonsdale.

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Both Turner and Ruskin declared the panoramic view over the River Lune towards the 14th century Devil's Bridge to be one of the loveliest in the country.

You can walk down to the river by going down the steep steps from Church Brow, after enjoying 'Ruskin's View'
The steps are known as the Radical Steps, built by Dr. Francis Pearson in the 1820s.

​Dr. Francis Pearson was apparently known for his strong political views, and courted local controversy when he diverted a public footpath that originally ran through his garden, hence the name of the his steps. 

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I really like Kirkby Lonsdale because it's got such a great collection of independent shops, good pubs and restaurants, but particularly for its many interesting corners with odd names and unexpected architectural features.

​Nowadays a 'gazebo' is a flimsy half tent hastily erected in case of rain during an event. The Kirkby Lonsdale version of a gazebo in St. Mary's churchyard is a two storey stone-built octagonal affair, standing proud over the meadow. 
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Streets still have no-nonsense names, depicting the activities that used to take place. It's pretty clear what happened in Swine Market. You can still spot the old market cross, and little weigh-house with the outline of the weighing platform.

​Salt Pie Lane is fairly clear too: those pies must have been quite special to have a road named after them. 
​Jingling Lane is less obvious: I think it's from the sound made by small bells or coins being rubbed together but maybe some one will correct me? 
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​Part of the reason Kirkby Lonsdale has so many fine inns and places to eat and drink is because of its location as an important river crossing, on drover and packhorse routes.

​At one time there were numerous mills in the town, carding wool, making snuff, bobbins and cloth as well as grinding corn.

Don't miss the new, free attraction, The Vaults, in the Tourist Information Centre. It's a great place to uncover some of Kirkby Lonsdale's fascinating past. 

PictureImage by Paul Harris
​The attractive Devil's Bridge dates back to medieval times, with a curious story to add to its fame.

​An old woman lived on the riverbank with her small collection of animals. One night one of her cows wandered across to the other side of the river and wouldn't return.

The devil appeared and said he'd build a bridge in exchange for the soul of the first body to cross it. She agreed, and the devil built the bridge, leaving his own hand-mark in the stone, which can still be seen today.



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As soon as the bridge was built, the woman met the devil, pretending to be interested in seeing who was the first to cross. She threw food across the river and a small dog ran to get it, meaning the devil felt cheated, became enraged and disappeared in a cloud of his own making. 

Perhaps some in Kirkby Lonsdale still regret the treatment of that poor dog and want to make amends. Outside the Sun Inn is a dog drinking dish and a very smart shower for boots and dogs!

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Thornborough Henges

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PictureImage: A M Hunt from Yorkshire Archaeological Aerial Mapping
There are plenty of stunning places in and around the Yorkshire Dales that are not well-known despite their unique features. Thornborough is on the fringes of the Dales, between the A1 and Masham and yet barely anyone has ever heard of it.

The name may be familiar to a few thanks to Thornborough Cider, but hardly anyone knows of one of England's most significant and mysterious prehistoric sites - the Thornborough Henges.

Called by some the "Stonehenge of the North", this site is very different to its Southern cousin. There are no stones to see and neither are there any crowds. 

The Thornborough Henges are thought to be over 5000 years old and consist of three circular mounds, ditches and banks.

You can see and feel some of the scale of these curious landmarks by wandering around the site but these aerial images by A M Hunt of Yorkshire Archaeological Aerial Mapping give a much clearer indication. It's one of the largest ritual religious sites in Britain. 

PictureImage: A M Hunt from Yorkshire Archaeological Aerial Mapping
The Thornborough Henges are thought to be the world's only triple henge complex.

Unlike some prehistoric sites where your imagination has to work harder than your eyes to discern any traces of the past, at Thornborough it's still possible to see the ditches and banks, particularly the northern henge.

The structure is apparently in alignment with Orion's Belt in the night sky, something they have in common with Egypt's Great Pyramids. Some believe the Thornborough Henges were built even before the pyramids. If so, what made man so many miles apart decide to build these great works in line with Orion? 
​

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Georgian Theatre Royal

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Most people associate the Yorkshire Dales with stunning scenery, but there's one type of different scenery here that you may not know about: we have Britain's oldest surviving stage scenery. It's a beautiful woodland scene, has been fully restored and you can see it during a Georgian Theatre Experience at the Theatre Royal in Richmond. 

The Georgian Theatre Royal is a really special place. You step through the modern frontage literally into another world, one that's quite unexpected in the Dales. It's not a big theatre but it's certainly professional and historic. It's actually Britain's oldest working theatre in its original form, and manages to fulfil several roles admirably - as a playhouse, a living theatre museum, wedding and meeting venue. 

Built by actor-manager Samuel Butler in 1788, it was in regular use for performances until at least 1830 and then had a variety of other purposes including as an auction room and wine vault! After a significant programme of restoration it re-opened in 1963, and was later expanded. 

How does a performance in an 18th century playhouse feel? It's a much more intimate experience than in many theatres, with a sort of courtyard feel. Boxes and galleried seating are quite close to the stage - the furthest seat is less than 11 metres from the stage. The colour scheme feels authentic, with simulated candle lustres adding to the atmosphere. The seats aren't the softest but being that close to the stage you'll be too engrossed to notice. 

The Georgian Theatre Experience offers a change to go back stage, when you can discover much more about the history of the theatre and its secrets. Their tours are really immersive with a chance to try on costumes, and learn about the life of a Georgian actor. You'll even be able to stand on the stage, see the historic woodland scenery and look at the stage from the perspective of both the cheap seats and an exclusive box. For more details of when tours and performances take place please see their website. All images thanks to The Georgian Theatre Royal.

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