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Limestone pavements

2 Comments

 
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When I first met my husband many years ago, he'd newly arrived in England after living on three different continents and didn't know England very well at all. There was however one landscape he knew about thanks to his O' level geography.

Despite taking his O' levels in Singapore, he'd still learnt about the limestone pavements of the Yorkshire Dales. 

Like many of the features right in front of our nose, we take them a little for granted: just one of many attractive and distinctive sights in the Yorkshire Dales. The reality though is that limestone pavements are quite rare and they've very special habitats.

The majority of them in Britain are to be found in the Yorkshire Dales National Park and Cumbria. The most favourite limestone pavement, and the one that featured in geography syllabuses as far away as Singapore, is the one above Malham Cove. You can also find them in other areas of Malhamdale, Ribblesdale near Ingleton and White Scar Cave, Crummackdale, and above Austwick on Moughton. They're often on the top of scars or limestone cliffs, a startling plateau of limestone rock, weathered by centuries of wind and rain. 

Limestone pavements were first formed by ice sheets which effectively scoured the limestone rock. The block-like pavement effect comes from the clints and grikes in the blocks of limestone. The clints are the flat slabs of limestone and the grikes the cracks between them which have been widened by water over time. It's this combination that makes such an important habitat. Plants that love light grow along the clints and those that prefer shade grow in the grikes, out of reach of grazing animals. Several ferns such as hart's-tongue, limestone fern, buckler-fern and holly fern all grow there as well as plants like rock-rose and bloody crane's-bill. There are Limestone Pavement Orders in place to protect this biodiversity. 

​All images by Paul Harris. 

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Tractor love

1 Comment

 
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I've hesitated about writing today's blog. In most of my articles I've tried to share insights about life in the Yorkshire Dales and ideas about things to do and places to go for visitors. I've written about what I know, and covered topics that are inherent to the Dales sense of place. 

Today's topic is an essential part of Dales life, whether it's using them directly or simply seeing them in the fields, but it's one I have to admit knowing little about: tractors.

Where would we be without these work-horses, ancient and modern, used as transport, haulage and even a focus for leisure time tinkering? 

I've often thought that if tractors carried a list of the jobs they do on their rear, bad tempered motorists travelling behind them on narrow country lanes would feel very differently. 

When I say I know nothing about tractors, that's not strictly true. Many years ago I worked in what was then East Germany as a translator. I spent several weeks translating a mighty construction and operating manual for a tractor company, from German to English. Not being very technically minded, this was a job I was totally unsuited to do but there was no one else to do it. The result was pretty appalling, a bit like those nonsensical instructions you used to get for Japanese electronic equipment. I still have a horrible picture in my head of someone receiving their unassembled tractor pieces, setting them out on the ground Ikea-flat-pack-style, and desperately using my terrible translation to put them all together. I'm haunted by the hundreds of different elements that went to complete a deceptively simple piece of machinery.

Thankfully Dales farmers don't have to rely on my technical expertise, and their tractors generally come from more reliable sources. Is there any other vehicle that inspires such incredible love and loyalty as the humble tractor? Obviously much of this is due to the tractor's many essential roles in farming but it feels like more than just that. 

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Toddlers can go into raptures of joy just to spot a tractor toy, and are beside themselves when they see the real thing. For some that attraction never goes away. Look at the line up of tractors at one of our Dales country shows, and you'll see the pride and love for even (or maybe especially?) the oldest, most basic models, They've been fettled and polished, absorbing countless hours of care. 

Vintage tractor runs around the Dales attract big audiences and admiration. Helen Benson recently raised over £4000 on her revamped 1968 David Brown 880 tractor on her 400 mile tour of Yorkshire for the Farming Community Network. I also heard of a friend organising a Swaledale pub crawl by tractor for her delighted husband's big birthday.

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This old beauty was one of the prize winners at the 2019 Reeth Show. Photos were proudly displayed showing how it was used in this year's harvest.

​I wonder how many years ago that piece of carpet was added as the latest in comfort technology? 

So next time you're stuck behind a tractor, perhaps take the time to ponder the many hours of work they do, the pride they engender, the difference they make to many farrmers' lives, and the enormous love they command? 

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Gordale Scar

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​The Yorkshire Dales has more than its fair share of dramatic must-see sights.

​Some of them are famous, and others a little less known but nonetheless dramatic.

The area around Malham is rich in remarkable landmarks and astonishingly beautiful scenery.


​One of the largest is quite a surprise when you come upon it because it’s only visible once you’ve got closer to it, by walking alongside the beck and turned towards it – Gordale Scar.​ 

​t’s believed to be around 15 million years old, formed during the ice age when glacial meltwater cut through rock faults, and over time the force of the water carved out the gorge. An interesting feature is the tufa, crust-like deposits found on the rocks, created by the dissolved limestone in the water splashed down in the waterfall. Gordale Scar is at the end of 20 mile fault line, known as the Craven Fault stretching from Cumbria into the Dales.
 
Gordale Scar is absolutely stunning in dry weather. After rain it becomes even more dramatic and beautiful in a completely different way, as the waterfall gushes down the limestone gorge. 

The best way to enjoy Gordale Scar is to park at the Malham National Park Centre and call in for their walking route suggestion, including their Malham Landscape trail and Miles without Stiles booklets. 

It's hard to describe the awe-inspiring beauty of this spot, so it's thanks to James Harrop for this drone footage. He's an amateur photographer from Bradford who regularly visits the Dales to enjoy the outstanding beauty. ​
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Sedbergh Treasure Map

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  • Sedbergh is a special place. It's snuggled away on the edge of the Yorkshire Dales National Park among the Howgills which Wainwright described as looking like 'sleeping elephants'. 

  • It's one of those places that initially appears as a small market town straddling Yorkshire and Cumbria, secure in its place as a useful stopping off point on longer journeys. Spend a little longer and you'll soon become beguiled by its charms which gently unfold, layer by layer. 

If you'd like to discover more of Sedbergh, download our free Sedbergh Treasure Map. Like the best treasure maps, you need to work a little to find all the hidden gems. The map shows their locations but it's only by wandering around that you'll uncover be able to find which special feature is where. 

Use the Sedbergh Treasure Map to discover: 
  • Exhibitions, looms and shops inside Farfield Mill
  • Remains of the motte and bailey castle at Castlehaw
  • Embroidery panels depicting Sedbergh’s history at St. Andrew's Church
  • Bookshops – Sedbergh is England’s Book Town
  • 'Loose cannons' lying around the ginnels and alleyways
  • Unusual stained-glass windows depicting nature scenes at St. Gregory’s Church
  • Shops, cafes and pubs along Finkle Street & Main Street
  • Former weavers' cottages and weavers’ gallery in Railton Yard

    Nearby:
  • Brigflatts, one of the most famous and beautiful Quaker meeting houses
  • Cautley Spout, claimed as England’s highest cascading waterfall
  • Fox’s Pulpit at Shacklabank, from the bottom of Black Horse Hill
  • the pub with no beers or alcohol: The Cross Keys Inn
    at Cautley (though visitors are welcome to bring their own!)

Download the free Sedbergh Treasure Map here. 

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Sheep dog demonstrations

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Are you old enough to remember 'One man and his Dog', the BBC programme that started in 1976 and ran for 23 years, with audiences of up to 8 million people?

It was such a simple programme, showcasing the skills of sheepdogs and the incredible communication between dog and handler.

Watching working sheep dogs on TV was mesmerising, but there's nothing like watching in real life as a farmer slowly and steadily works his dog to round up sheep and move them from one place to another. 

Thanks to Wensleydale farmer Richard Fawcett you can see a fantastic demonstration just outside Hawes in a field off Burnt Acres Road every Thursday from May to October. Richard talks about local farming life and history, his sheep and then introduces his dogs. He explains how he trains his sheep dogs, how he gets two dogs working together and demonstrates flock work. It's a very entertaining and informative way to spend an hour or so, as Richard is full of anecdotes and stories and very happy to answer visitors' questions. 

There are few better places to watch the interaction between man, dog and sheep than in the wonderful Wensleydale setting on Richard's farm between Hawes and Hardraw. He's taken part in countless sheep dog trails, and featured on several TV programmes since he first started the displays as a fundraiser in 1987. 

Richard's demonstrations take place in all weathers every Thursday, starting at 18.30 from May to August and at 14.30 in September and October. For more details see his website.Thanks to Richard for use of the images. 

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Free audio trails

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PictureMuker image by Guy Carpenter
Sometimes it’s good to learn a little more about the life and history of places as you enjoy a beautiful scenic walk, and to be guided to find a good route that highlights some of the area’s special features.

The Yorkshire Dales National Park has several free audio trails you can download and use, with maps to accompany them. Most of them are around 3-5 miles long.

There are several to choose from:
 
Discover the fascinating story of the construction of the Ribblehead Viaduct, when a small town was created for the people working on this ambitious project.
 
Travel through 10,000 years of history around Grassington and learn about its historic features, farmland and wildlife.
 
Enjoy a wonderful riverside walk from Muker in Swaledale, finding out more about the area’s gorgeous hay meadows and discover some of the historic buildings in the area, as well as the Corpse Way.
 
Wander around the two villages of Bainbridge and Askrigg, and learn about the mills that were once an important part of life here.
 
Follow the audio trail from Stainforth along the River Ribble on to Stainforth Foss and then back via the remarkable Hoffman Kiln.
 
You can find all these free audio trails here.

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Crackpot Hall

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PictureImage by Glenda Calvert
At first glance, Crackpot Hall just looks like any other ruined house. It’s hard to immediately see why it’s so well-known.
 
There may be plenty of other romantic ruins in the Yorkshire Dales, but Crackpot Hall is certainly the best known, despite its seemingly remote location near Keld in Swaledale. It’s on the crossroads of the Coast to Coast Path and the Pennine Way.
 
Crackpot’s very name intrigues. Like many Dales names, it originally came from old English, and Viking times. ‘Crack’ is another name for a crow, and a ‘pot’ is a cave or deep hole. ‘Hall’ makes it sound like it was once a grand house and yet it was at most a hunting lodge or large farmhouse.
 
One of the myths associated with Crackpot Hall started in the 1930s when the two authors and historians, Marie Hartley and Joan Ingleby wrote about a young girl called Alice who seemed to run freely with her dogs in the countryside around Crackpot. The way they described her laugh made her sound a little crazy and over time stories of a waif-like ghost child developed. The isolated setting fed such stories and sense of intrigue.

PictureImage by Glenda Calvert
David Almond made a radio programme about these stories after he tracked down the real Alice who told him she had once lived at Crackpot hall with her farming family and she did what many Dales children still do today… simply played outside and enjoyed the surrounding meadows…
 
Now walkers make mini pilgrimages to this lovely spot. Apart from the ruined house and the vestiges of the sheep pens and cowus, there is little of the house left to see but the beauty of the setting always remains. You might like to follow this route suggestion to reach Crackpot Hall.

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Sheep graffiti?

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 For many years (and in some places still) sheep were grazed on common land, which belonged to the whole community so different flocks mixed together.

Farmers used paint marks to differentiate their sheep from others. It was originally a combination of pigment and grease so the colour stayed on. Chemical sprays are now more commonly used. Each farmer would devise their own shape or combination of stripes.


​Eventually local manuals of smit marks were published, showing which farmer used which marks. In addition to these ownership marks, you may see other ones.

After scanning, farmers may mark ewes to show how many lambs each one expects, or mark new born lambs so it’s easy to know which is their mother.

In the Autumn you’ll see colour on the backsides of ewes. Tups (rams) are fitted with a raddle on their chest which contains colour. Each time they tup (mate with) a ewe some of the colour comes off so the farmer knows which sheep are likely to have lambs. 

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Take a trip on a vintage bus

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Mallerstang and Ravenstonedale are names that few visitors to the Yorkshire Dales know.

​The north western corner of the Yorkshire Dales National Park is almost unknown, a very special area that can feel like you're one of the first explorers to discover a hidden Eden. 

It already feels like a step back in time, when life was perhaps simpler and gentler. You can enhance this feeling of time travel further further by taking a trip with Cumbria Classic Coaches, a family run business with a small fleet of classic and vintage buses and coaches. 

Every Tuesday in Summer they run a timetabled day trip service through Mallerstang from Ravenstonedale via Kirkby Stephen and Outhgill to Hawes.

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​There's time then to explore the bustling market town of Hawes, perhaps visiting Wensleydale Creamery and the Dales Countryside Museum, before taking the trip back. 

If you're celebrating a special occasion you might want to think about hiring one of these special vehicles to make the journey part of the fun. 

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Hebden - wonderful food & drink

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Hebden is a lovely little hamlet just off the scenic route between Pateley Bridge and Grassington, just below Grimwith Reservoir.

It's probably been there since Roman times since a hoard of silver coins was found a few years ago in a field near the village.

This area is loved by visitors, many of whom enjoy meals at the imposing and yet friendly Clarendon Hotel, a pub with a warm welcome and excellent food made by Alsatian (from Alsace not German Shepherd!) chef and owner Lionel Strub. ​

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If you turn off the B6265 down the main road through Hebden village you might notice the golden postbox on the right hand side. It was painted in 2012 to commemorate the gold medal won by local rower Andrew Tiggs Hodge in the coxless fours at the London Summer Olympic Games.
​
A few yards away is the Old School which dates back to 1874. The school closed and in 2007 was turned into the wonderful Old School Tea Room, run by Maggie and her daughter Emma.

It really is a fantastic spot, characterful and cosy. The menu is interesting and extensive, with some excellent cakes and meals as well as range of great gifts and cards. There's a very pretty outdoor seating area in the garden, with wonderful views.

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    Money Does Grow On Trees
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    Muker Show
    Nature's Cure
    Nature's Jewels
    Nidderdale
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    Nordic Walking
    Oak Apples
    Old School Muker Art Gallery
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    Pateley Bridge
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    Pendragon Castle
    Pepper Pot & Guillotine
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    Positive People
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    Serene & Spiritual
    Settle Falconry
    Settle Flower Pot Festival
    Settle Folly
    Settle To Carlisle Railway
    Settle-treasure-map
    Sheep-dog-demonstrations
    Sheep-graffiti
    Sherlock-holmes-yorkshire-dales
    Signs
    Silage Or Hay?
    Simple Ways To Enjoy Nature
    Skipton
    Skipton Castle
    Skipton Castle Woods
    Sloe Gin
    Smallest Art Gallery In The World
    Solitude And Silence
    Speak Sheep
    Spotting Spring
    Squeezes And Kissing Gates
    Stainforth & Leaping Salmon
    Starry Skies
    Stay Cool
    Stiles
    Stonehenge Of The Dales
    Stories Of Semerwater
    Stories Of The Dales
    Stories Of The Vault
    Studfold's Magical World
    Swaledale Festival
    Swaledale Museum
    Swaledale Secret Garden
    Swaledale Sheep
    Swale Trail
    Swift Trail
    Tan Hill Inn
    Tennants
    Terrible Knitters Of Dent
    The Buttertubs
    The Dalesman
    The End Of The Road
    The Hills Are Alive...
    The Pennine Way
    Thornborough Cider
    Thornborough Henges
    Three Peaks Arts Trail
    Thwaite & Attenborough's Forerunners
    Tombola & Raffles
    Town End Farm Shop
    Tractor Love
    Traffic Jams Dales Style
    Transports Of Delight
    Trees That Talk
    Tupping Time
    Underground Wonders
    Vicar On A 3-wheeler
    Village Greens
    Vintage Coach Trip
    Volunteers
    Walking In The Yorkshire Dales
    Walks
    Waterfalls
    Wensleydale Cheese
    Wensleydale Experience
    Wensleydale Railway
    Wensley Wonders
    West Burton
    What Makes A Good Yorkshire Dales Pub
    When It Rains In The Yorkshire Dales
    Wild Garlic & The Good Life
    Wild Swimming
    Wishing Trees
    Wonders Of Wool
    Wool In The Yorkshire Dales
    Wriggly Tin
    Yellow Cheer
    Yockenthwaite - Centre Of The Dales
    Yorkshire Dales Animal Artists
    Yorkshire Dales Books & Bookshops
    Yorkshire Dales Curiosities
    Yorkshire Dales National Park Features & History
    Yorkshire Dales Shepherdess
    Yorkshire Three Peaks
    Yorkshire Trails


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Find more places to visit in the Yorkshire Dales

Wharfedale
Grassington
Kettlewell
Burnsall
Appletreewick
Kilnsey

Bolton Abbey Estate

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Swaledale & Arkengarthdale
Reeth
Richmond
Muker
Thwaite
Keld
Buttertubs
Langthwaite
Gunnerside
Crackpot Hall
Corpse Way
Swale Trail
Wensleydale
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Hawes
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Leyburn
Masham
Middleham
Askrigg
Wensley
Aysgarth
Carperby


Ribblesdale & Three Peaks
Settle
Settle-Carlisle Railway 
Yorkshire Three Peaks
Clapham
Feizor
Hoffman
Ingleborough
Ingleton
Stainforth
Nidderdale
Pateley Bridge
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Scar House Reservoir
Coldstones Cut
Fountains Abbey

​Brimham Rocks

About DalesDiscoveries.com

This independent not-for-profit website was created using recommendations from Dales insiders' - people who live in, and love the Yorkshire Dales. 
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​Copyright Susan Briggs 2021
The Tourism Network
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