Category: Attractions

Aysgarth Rock Garden

Aysgarth Rock Garden is a real gem, hidden in plain sight from the many visitors who drive from Hawes to Swinithwaite on the A684. From the road you just see a few rocks and a small gate so it looks like it's a private garden and still bears the original private sign.

It was closed to visitors for many years but the current owner, Mrs. Anderson welcomes visitors, in return for a donation into the box by the gate towards the upkeep of this lovely little garden. It's small but magical. Young children find it otherworldly, thanks to the twisting paths and low archways created by enormous blocks of limestone.

The Rock Garden feels very calm, set apart from the busy road, with places to sit and just enjoy the birdsong. I love places like this, somewhere an individual created on a whim for their own enjoyment, which years later still brings unexpected pleasure to countless visitors. "Rock Garden" sounds quite harsh, and yet this feels soft and gentle, a welcome respite and chance to just sit and look.

The garden is beautifully maintained, with planting on different levels, in and around the rocks and there's a small cascading waterfall. Despite its small size, it's apparently significant in horticultural history. Interestingly the garden was created by Frank Sayer Graham who was also responsible for nearby Lady Hill.

He'd made some money from his various businesses and in the tradition of the time, decided to create something to enjoy and show off his wealth. Alpine plants were very popular so he set about creating his own alpine paradise, using James Backhouse to create the garden opposite his home. The limestone blocks came from Stephen's Moor and a spring-fed waterfall was created. It's possible Frank Sayer Graham took advice on the planting from plant hunter and alpine specialist Reginald Farrer at Ingleborough Caves and Nature Trail.

The garden fell into disuse for some time. There are stories that it was used for a garden gnome business for a while, and that the odd headless gnome can still be found in the garden's nooks and crannies. Locals campaigned to prevent the garden being sold for development and Aysgarth Rock Garden was spot listed in 1988. Funding from the Yorkshire Dales Millennium Trust, and the RHS enabled the garden to be renovated.

The current owners, Mr and Mrs. Anderson bought the garden in 2012 are keen for visitors to enjoy the 300 varieties of plants and ferns in the garden. Please do park in the layby rather than the road in front of the garden, and remember to use the donation box.

Richmond Castle

Did you know there are over 40 Richmonds in the world? Of course the original, and best Richmond is in Swaledale, North Yorkshire!

Richmond Castle is very much at the centre of the town by the river Swale. You can enjoy a beautiful walk around the Castle walls, but it's really worth going inside to discover more about the history of the castle and to enjoy wonderful sweeping views over the Yorkshire Dales from the castle keep. The Castle is now managed by English Heritage.

Richmond Castle was built around 1071 after the Norman Conquest in 1066 - the earliest parts of the castle are the long curtain wall and great archway in the keep. It's said that Richmond Castle is the best preserved castle of this scale and age in England.

For some time in the 19th century, it was an army barracks presided over by the Duke of Richmond. The Castle became the Northern headquarters of the Territorial Army in 1908. During the First World War sixteen conscientious objectors were held in the castle, kept in cells in what used to be the reserve amoury by the castle gate. Look inside the small cells and you'll see their really touching graffiti on the walls.

Outside the Cockpit Garden is a lovely picnic spot. When viewed from above you can really appreciate its formal layout. It was created in 2000 by Neil Swanson who wanted to create a garden that also reflected the castle's turbulent history.

Once you've walked around the inside of the Castle, take some time to wander around the outside walls, to wander by the Swale and enjoy Richmond's cobbled streets. Every time I do, I'm surprised Richmond isn't busier - there are so many lovely streets and beautiful buildings to discover.

If you're looking for somewhere to stay, I recommend Cordilleras House B&B or Holiday at Homes' excellent range of self-catering properties and lodges.

Richmond by Guy Carpenter Gullwing Photography

Askrigg

At first glance, Askrigg is a small village set on a hill, lined with tall houses with a tiny cobbled market area and cross. Many visitors pass through it on their way to gorgeous Swaledale. If you pause for a while, you'll not only have time to enjoy delicious cakes and pies at the truly wonderful Humble Pie, but discover some other surprising gems.

You might find that Askrigg already looks familiar: probably thanks to its fame as a key location for the BBC's James Herriot's All Creatures Great and Small, using one of the houses as Skeldale House and the King's Arms as the Drovers'. You can see photos from the filming in the pub. The King's Arms was built as a coaching inn by John Pratt, a renowned racehorse breeder who kept his hunters and hounds in the yard behind the pub. The buildings behind the pub now belong to a holiday company, but you can still walk through and see the semi-circular enclosure.

'Askrigg' is thought to mean the 'ridge where ash trees grow', and is mentioned as 'Ascric' in the Domesday book. It's thought that Cistercian monks from Jervaulx Abbey grazed their sheep here. Elizabeth 1st granted a market charter in 1587. The fine houses either side of the road mainly date back to the 18th and 19th century when Askrigg was part of the then lucrative textile industry. The market cross dates back to 1830. Askrigg was also celebrated as a centre for clock-making, starting with John Ogden in 1680, and continuing through the centuries. Other well-known clockmakers were Mark Metcalfe, James Pratt and Christopher Caygill. You can see some examples of Askrigg clocks in the Dales Countryside Museum in Hawes. Over 60 years ago Marie Hartley and Joan Ingilby told the history of Askrigg in their celebrated book, 'Yorkshire Village'.

Some interesting features to look out for:

The market cross, pump and iron bull ring set into the cobbles.
Lovely little bridge at the top of the village
The lions - look up! - I'd love to know the story of these but can't find out anything about them
The Parish Church of St. Oswalds dates from 1446. Pevsner declaimed the nave ceiling to be the "finest in the North Riding". The font is thought to date from before the 15th century.
Nearby Nappa Hall was the home of the Metcalfe family. It's believed Mary, Queen of Scots was imprisoned there for a short time, probably before going to Castle Bolton

Bolton Abbey & Stepping Stones

Image credit: Bolton Abbey Estate

Is it possible to cross the 60 Bolton Abbey stepping stones across the River Wharfe without smiling and then cheering as you arrive dry-footed at the other side? Those who choose the less risky route on the nearby foot bridge can't help but look down and smile at the stepping stone crossers, usually with a wry 'they're mad' shake of the head.

The stones were once an essential crossing point for workers at the nearby Priory, which is at the heart of the Bolton Abbey Estate (and often referred to as the Abbey).

Established in the 12th century, the Priory community grew and prospered, attracting wealthy patrons, enabling investment in local farms and mills which in turn funded the development of the Priory. The Priory was added to over the centuries, and even had to be temporarily abandoned in the early 14th century when Scottish raiders threatened, and some damage was done to the priory. Restoration and building work were still underway until 1539 when King Henry VIII seized the assets of monasteries across the land.

The Priory was luckier than monasteries in other areas. It was the only church in the area - the nave survived and has continued its use as a parish church. More building work took place during Victorian times including installation of stained glass windows designed by Pugin.

The church was almost closed due to financial difficulties and a declining congregation in the 1970s but a forward-thinking new priest managed to reverse its fortunes, and a major restoration took place in the 1980s, securing the building for the future.

The Priory's setting in a bend of the River Wharfe is idyllic, and the ruins are extensive enough for visitors to easily be able to imagine the grandeur of the former building. Ruskin, Turner and Wordsworth were all inspired by the beauty of the Abbey and surrounding landscape. It continues to inspire modern-day artists, writers and photographers. A very blurred photo was even used on the cover of The Cure's Faith album!

Dales Galleries

Masham Gallery

The Yorkshire Dales have fired the imagination of artists and writers for generations. Today's creative folk are excellent ambassadors for the Dales. When you buy from them, you get to see the area through different eyes, to take a bit of the Dales home with you and remember special times every time you look at the works of art made here. Here's a selection of great galleries and shops where you can buy locally made art and craft.

Masham Gallery is full of carefully selected and beautifully displayed work by artists and makers from the Yorkshire Dales and beyond.

The Shop at The Station in Richmond prides itself on offering exceptional design from a variety of artists, and there is usually an exhibition on the first floor of the former station building.

With two floors of art and crafts, and regular exhibitions, discover the best regional and UK artists and makers at The Old School Muker, situated in magical Upper Swaledale.

Fleece in Reeth is a small shop and gallery formed through a co-operative of over 20 local artists crafting unique handmade pieces. The shop at the Dales Countryside Museum in Hawes has a small selection of locally made products while the nearby Herriot Gallery houses a constantly changing selection of paintings and other artwork by artists such as Peter Brook, Moira Metcalfe and Piers Browne.

At the Stonegate Glass & Gallery in Ingleton you'll find a range of fused glass designs and custom-made items as well as work by other local makers and artists.

The Studio Vault in Settle is small but beautiful, featuring work by owner and jeweller Emily Knight, with changing displays of work by other makers. Gavagan Art is nearby, filled with beautiful high quality art, ceramics and glasswork. Beautiful special gifts. Lime Gallery is located within the Courtyard near Settle, a collection of re-furbished former farm buildings, now housing businesses such as Dalesbred and Abraham Moon. Town Head Farm Shop near Airton has a good range of gifts and products made in the Yorkshire Dales. The Just Makers Gallery is just outside the Yorkshire Dales in Ripley and features makers from the local area.

Which galleries have I missed? Let me know in the comments below. Future blogs will feature some of the artists whose work you can find in these galleries.

Ingleborough Cave

Can you imagine the excitement in 1837 after a severe flood when James Farrer realised there was a whole wonderland of sculpted passages and cave formations within what we now call Ingleborough Cave?

Ingleborough Cave has delighted visitors ever since that time. They do offer pre-bookable 'Adventure Caving' for more intrepid visitors, but if that doesn't appeal you can enjoy a more comfortable experience along a well lit path, led by expert guides as you learn about the cave's 450 million year old history.

There are some great stories associated with the Ingleborough Estate and Farrer family. Reginald Farrer was a famous plant collector, author, writer and artist who once stood on a rowing boat in the lake and shot plant seeds from a shotgun in the hope that they would find the fertile resting place that he was otherwise unable to reach.

The entrance to the Cave comes after a beautiful walk along the Nature Trail which is a Site of Special Scientific Interest. The Cave is open daily from February to November and is a great place to visit when the weather isn't great since the temperature is at a constant level through out the year. It's best to wear comfortable walking shoes and take a coat.

They also run some special events such as '450 Millions Years of Geology', a guided walk led by an expert local caver and writer who will take you to sites of significant geological interest, the Craven Fault system, Ingleborough Cave, Trow Gill gorge, Gaping Gill and other fascinating lesser known features.

The cave attracts many visitors who come to take photographs of the unusual formations and passageways. They're now putting on special evening sessions just for photographers, and organising tutorials with local photographer Stephen Knowles to develop photography skills. See Ingleborough Cave for more details.

Smallest Art Gallery in the World

Photo: Gallery on the Green

A few years ago when my daughter was about 8, she noticed a red phone box at the side of the road and asked me what it was. Of course she was too young to have ever used one so I explained it was for making phone calls. It was odd to see it through her eyes - she thought I meant it was a place to go with a mobile phone, away from the noise of the busy road!

Phone boxes have disappeared in many places but where the old style red kiosks remain, traditionalists want to keep them, even if their original purpose is no-longer as valid. Some people have started to find interesting new uses for their phone box. We once used ours as an info kiosk for an arts festival. Some are used as mini libraries.

In Settle you can find what is probably the 'smallest art gallery in the world', in the red phone box called Gallery on the Green. It's housed in one of the iconic boxes designed by Sir Giles Gilbert and is managed by Cultivating Settle who have set up a community art gallery. Not many art galleries are open 24 hours a day and can say they're filled to capacity at least twice a day, which is their claim!

Constantly changing exhibitions have been mounted in the Gallery on the Green since 2009, attracting locals, visitors and media attention. Forthcoming exhibitions include "Darker Side of Fairy Tales" from 18th March - 24th May, followed by "Becket in a Box". For more details see the website.

There is no car parking on the Green so it's best to park elsewhere then enjoy the 10 minute walk from Settle market place, past the Talbot Arms and Settle Folly and then take the right fork at the junction.

Embsay to Bolton Abbey Steam Railway

In the mood for a little nostalgia, a gentle day trip in beautiful countryside? All aboard for the Embsay to Bolton Abbey Steam Railway! Run by an incredible team of very committed volunteers, this preserved heritage railway makes for a really special day out, travelling in time.

Everyone gets excited as they hear the thrilling hiss of the engine, turns up their noses in delight at the smell of the steam. Volunteers make sure everyone's safely on board and settled in one of the beautifully restored Edwardian and Victorian carriages.

On some trains you can even travel in Queen Victoria's original saloon, accompanied by some of Queen Victoria's favourite delicacies with a glass of champagne.

The route is only five miles long, chugging through the Dales countryside between Embsay and Bolton Abbey station. If you want to see the trains in motion and take pictures you can stop off en route at Holywell Halt. From Bolton Abbey station, it's a leisurely mile and a half walk to the Abbey ruins and Bolton Abbey Estate.

The railway is volunteer-run and doesn't receive any grants towards its running costs so they have to be enterprising to cover the costs of services and their ongoing restoration programme. You can book meals on board as part of their services and special events, ranging from cooked breakfasts, ploughman's lunches, beautifully presented afternoon teas, Sunday roasts, curries, wine and cheese tastings. Events include Santa Specials, a 1940s weekend, and Halloween Specials.

If you'd like to treat someone, you could buy them the chance to do something really different: a Signal Box Experience, controlling the locos and trains; and the Footplate Experience. The Footplate Experience sounds incredible - it offers the opportunity to run over the full line and pull a complete service train, with spaces on the train for your family!

It's best to book in advance. Steam trains run on Sundays in Winters, then more frequently during the rest of the year until daily in August. See the full timetable here.

Brimham Rocks

Brimham Rocks are the kind of natural curiosity that delight young and old visitors alike. Once discovered, many ask ‘why haven’t we been here before?’.

They’re slightly hidden on a minor road near Summerbridge in the Nidderdale Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty and make a perfect natural playground and picnic spot. The site is large enough to provide entertainment for several hours, with plenty of spot for children to run and play hide and seek among the rocks.

The Millstone Grit stones have a coarse surface, making them a great starting point for young climbers but watch out on rainy days when they can be quite slippy. Roger and the Rottentrolls was filmed here so you may spot some of the locations from the children’s TV series. The views from the rocks on a clear day also make it worth a visit, particularly if you’re seeking a picnic site.

The rocks are the result of over 350 million years of erosion. Around 380 million years ago a huge delta river deposit the Millstone Grit which was eventually shaped by ice, water, and sand deposits in wind, creating the curious collection of interesting shaped rocks that visitors now love.

Over the years the various formations and shapes have been given names, and stories attach to some of them. There are numerous Rocking Stones, Druid’s Kissing Chair, Wishing Rock, Pulpit Rock, Cannon Rocks. Some are said to resemble animals - the Crocodiles, Polar Bears, Elephant, Turtle, Rat, Owl and Camel’s Head.

In the 1950s it seems to have been a popular pastime to ask bachelors to walk through a narrow cleft called the Needle, for the amusement of assembled women (simpler times...). Children now delight in weaselling their way through the tight spaces and discovering the nooks and crannies.

Brimham is a Site of Special Scientific Interest. It's quite unusual to find three different varieties of heather in one area – ling, bell, and cross-leaved heath. Numerous bird boxes have been erected around the site, which attract blue and great tits, pied flycatchers, nuthatches, redstarts, spotted flycatchers and owls.

The National Trust has a regular programme of events at Brimham Rocks, with guided walks looking at its geology and history, and adventure days organised with the Harrogate Climbing Centre.

Jervaulx Abbey

Many businesses describe themselves as 'family-run' but few families are quite as involved in running different aspects of their business as the Burdons who run Jervaulx Abbey.

Carol, Ian, Anna and Gayle are all active participants in making this a very special place to visit and enjoy.

If you were to ask all the families living within 10 miles of Jervaulx if you could look at their photes, a high proportion of pictures would probably include the abbey ruins and tea rooms. It's perfect for every stage of life. A safe visit for toddlers who're just embarking on life on two legs, while the adults wander and maybe enjoy the odd moment's peace in the tranquil surroundings.

As they grow older, children love to play hide and seek in the beautiful Abbey ruins, while their parents chat and don't try quite as hard as they could to find them. And so it goes on. Groups of friends use it as a meeting place, gathering for a picnic or going for a walk and then enjoying the excellent cake in the tea rooms. Friends meet there for 30th, 40th, 50th, 60th birthdays. I recently saw a sprightly 90 year holding court with her family and friends in the extended tea rooms. It's now also a wedding and civil ceremony venue, so there are even more reasons why Jervaulx appears in family albums.

The french-sounding name comes from the times when Jervaulx was one of the great Cistercian abbeys of England, built in the 12th century. Its name means 'Ure valley' or 'Yoredale', the old name for Wensleydale. The monks were rich and powerful, largely from trading sheep and wool which was an important commodity in the middle ages. They bred and trained horses, a trade still carried on in nearby Middleham - Windsor of the North. The first Wensleydale Cheese was made by the monks, originally using sheep's milk. After the Dissolution of the Monasteries, Jervaulx was pillaged but substantial ruins remain.

Jervaulx Abbey is one of the largest privately owned Cistercian Abbeys in England and is open to the public - don't forget to pay your contribution in the Honesty Box. Owners Ian and Carol don't receive any government funding for the upkeep of this treasured historic monument in its stunning setting. Despite being injured in a car accident some years ago, Ian works hard to maintain the Abbey and the surrounding garden which is abundant in wild flowers.

The Burdon family created and developed the Tea Rooms across the road from the Abbey 25 years ago, and Gayle and Anna now run them. They're celebrating 25 years with the launch of a recipe book.

They also have an award-winning wedding cake business, "Where the Ribbon Ends" which has a studio and display of cakes within a section of the tea rooms.

Why don't you start your own family tradition and explore Jervaulx Abbey before enjoy cake or lunch in the Tea Rooms?

And don't forget your camera...