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Lynchets and mysterious terraces

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Have you ever noticed quite regular strips of terraced land cut into hillsides in the Dales?

If this were somewhere else you might see a vineyard or rice growing on such a landscape. In the Dales, it's simply a reminder of an ancient field system.

In Anglo-Saxon times, the land surrounding each village was held in common. There was a well-organised system of land usage. The land was carefully divided and allocated to villagers or 'commoners'.

​Hay was usually taken from the low-lying meadow land by rivers. A little higher up, another layer of land was used to grow crops and then grazed by livestock after harvest. The uplands were also be grazed. Commoners took turns to use the land or 'do their stint'.

The land in a productive field was carefully divided into strips so each family had an area to use to grow their own food  These strips were used to grow crops such as rye and barley (for beer), and oxen were used to plough the strips or flat terraces cut into the hillside. The result of this was row upon row of 'lynchets'. 

You can still see these medieval lynchets on the south facing slopes of many hills in the Dales. There are particularly good examples in Swaledale, Wensleydale and Wharfedale. I still find it incredible to think that these terraces from almost a thousand years ago can still be seen. They're been left largely undisturbed for centuries. Some of the lynchets were built up by piling stones cleared from the strips as they were cultivated. The flat strips are not wide, but were broad enough for oxen to plough. You may also spot some ridges and furrow, long ridges separated by ditches and used for arable farming. 

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Wool in the Yorkshire Dales

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As the temperature drops, you might be ready to hunt out your warmest clothes. Considering that there are 30 times more sheep than people in the Yorkshire Dales, you probably won't be surprised to hear me recommending wool as the best way to keep warm. It works pretty well for the 600,000 sheep living here on exposed uplands. 

A good starting point to explore how wool is used and to buy handmade woollen goods is to go to Farfield Mill in Sedbergh where you'll find lovely Laura's Loom. I first bought one of Laura's rugs several years ago and it's still saving me a fortune in heating bills and looking beautiful. Textile lovers will enjoy browsing around Farfield Mill in Sedbergh where you can see huge looms, learn about the Terrible Knitters of Dent and see the work of the artists and makers who're based at the Mill. There are changing exhibitions so there’s always something new to see. There are more wool creations at Craftworkshop in Sedbergh. 

Swaledale Woollens in Muker,
 was founded over 30 years ago by villages who wanted to revive the old cottage industry of knitting. They still use local Swaledale and Wensleydale wool for their knitwear.  

Glencroft in gorgeous Clapham are also well worth a visit, and if you're a keen knitter then you really should go to Beckside Yarns, one of the Dales' largest wool shops stocking Noro, Debbie Bliss, Araucania, Mirasol, Rowan, Amano yarns. 

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Wensleydale Longwool in Leyburn is a small but splendid shop with some very lustrous wool, with the kind of texture that you just want to reach out and squeeze, just for the pleasure of holding the wool in your hand. As the name implies, they spin and dye rare breed Wensleydale wool in 4-ply.

​In Skipton (the name means 'sheep town'!) you'll find 
Purl & Jane where Jane is absolutely passionate about wool, the seventh generation of her family to be involved in the yarn industry. She is particularly keen to promote wool spun locally by West Yorkshire Spinners (they also make fantastic socks!).

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There's another great wool business at Gam Farm near Grassington where Helen and her team rear and shear Shetland, Hebridean, Boreray and Whitefaced Woodland sheep to create their own range of wool. As they say, "any more natural and the sheep would still be wearing it!". 

In Settle, Sue runs Cottontail Crafts where she has a great range of craft materials and wool. You might have spotted Sue demonstrating crafts at various events and on TV.

​The latest wool shop to open is 
Craftopia in Ingleton where Amanda has crated a very warm welcoming shop focusing on wool, knitting and crochet, with some wonderfully eye-catching and magical window displays. ​

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When it rains in the Yorkshire Dales

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We can't promise you that it won't rain while you're in the Yorkshire Dales. That's why the fields are so full of lush green grass!

We can promise you won't run out of things to do - there are plenty of indoor activities in the Yorkshire Dales.

Or maybe you can take a moment to appreciate the good things about rain in the Yorkshire Dales? 

Double-check details and opening times before setting off on a long journey. Some places close in the Winter. 

Indoor attractions: explore castles, stately homes, quirky museums & caves

  • Explore every corner of Skipton Castle, from the Banqueting Hall, the Kitchen, the Bedchamber, and discover the Long Drop 
  • Visit the Dales Countryside Museum at Hawes to discover the story of the people and landscape of the Yorkshire Dales, past and present 
  • Swaledale Museum is a small museum crammed with fascinating items and has a great programme of events
  • Join a tour and enjoy the Georgian Theatre Experience in Richmond, led by a knowledgeable guide who will tell you about the shows, actors and audiences from Georgian times
  • Visit 17th century Kiplin Hall, built by George Calvert, Secretary of State to James I and the founder of Maryland, USA. There's also an award winning tea room!
  • Venture underground and explore one of the show caves at  Stump Cross Caverns, Ingleborough, or White Scar Cave 
  • There are plenty of indoor areas at Bolton Castle, including the armoury, dungeon, Great Chamber, old kitchens, nursery and bed chambers. Visitors can have a go at traditional medieval games and crafts including backgammon, cards, dice and spool knitting.​ 
  • Nidderdale Museum in Pateley Bridge is a small museum that's a little like a tardis with room after room crammed with fascinating exhibits about Nidderdale life
  • Learn the story of the Terrible Knitters of Dent at the Dent Village Heritage Centre
  • Visit the Grade 1 listed Settle Folly, built in 1679, home to the Museum of North Craven Life
  • Visit Craven Museum and Gallery and see Shakespeare’s First Folio​
  • The Richmondshire Museum displays local history. They have ten galleries including: James Herriot's surgery; lead mining; Victorian grocer's shop; ironmonger's shop; and life in a cruck house
  • The Green Howards Museum in Richmond is newly revamped and charts the 300 year history of this local regiment. With activity tables to explore, uniforms to try on, and colourful characters to discover,  there’s plenty for children to enjoy. Close by is The Station, where you'll find a cinema, restaurant, gallery, and several small businesses such as a micro brewery, bakery, ice cream seller, confectioner and vintage shop.

Watch others at work

How do they do that? Enjoy watching others at work! It’s great to get the inside track and see how things work, especially if it involves watching other people work while you’re enjoying your time off! Here are some places you can visit and see things being made
  • See Annabelle Bradley, the blacksmith at work in her smithy in Malham
  • The White Rose Candles workshop in Wensley may be tiny but has an amazing variety of candles for sale and you can often see them being made
  • You’ll see several talented people at the Silver Street Studios in Reeth including sculptor, Michael Kusz at Graculus 
  • See how the twist is put into the ropes at Outhwaites Ropemakers in Hawes
  • Discover how the famous, delicious cheese is made at Wensleydale Creamery
  • Watch cheese makers, bakers and brewers at the Station in Richmond, where you can also see a film, enjoy an art exhibition, meal in the café or an ice cream from Archers
  • Take a tour behind the scenes at the Georgian Theatre in Richmond
  • Learn how to make beer from the experts! Take a tour of Black Sheep Brewery or Theakstons in Masham
  • Discover the life of monks at Fountains Abbey, where you can also see Fountains Mill working when it rains and have a go at grinding corn
  • See chocolates being made at Inspired Chocolate near Leyburn, see a film about chocolate before returning to the shop where you can buy unusual pieces such as chocolate stilettos and drink hot chocolate in the cafe​
  • Visit Farfield Mill on the edge of Sedbergh, where you can easily spend several hours looking at the exhibits, speaking to the craftspeople who work there and looking around the galleries before tucking into some cake in Weavers Cafe. 

Wonderful Yorkshire Dales waterfalls

Waterfalls are at their most spectacular when it's been raining. There's no shortage of them in the Yorkshire Dales. Take a look at some Yorkshire Dales waterfalls here. 

Revel in the rain

The Yorkshire Dales air is fresh whether it rains or not. And if you go for a walk and get wet, you’ll feel you’ve really deserved a bigger helping of pudding when you go for that treat in a cosy café. 
  • Go for a swim at Ingleton swimming pool.  It is heated, so even in the rain it is a great experience
  • Don’t let the rain spoil the fun – put on wellies and raincoats to follow the Studfold Trail in Nidderdale
  • Go to meet the llamas at Nidderdale Llamas! Book an On Farm Experience or a Camelid Experience. 80% of the session is 'indoors' with all the animals! For the other 20% just wear a good waterproof, it's great fun in the rain and the llamas don't mind at all! 
  • Brimham Rocks are amazing in the rain: you can still enjoy an excellent game of hide and seek, finding lots of sheltered and dry places to hide among the rocks. Not so far away are some lovely tea tooms in Pateley Bridge, all cosy with a cup of coffee and cake
  • Call in at the Keld Countryside & Heritage Centre and have a look round so you know more about the surrounding countryside. Then enjoy sploshing in your walk in your wellies (preferably flowery, spotty, stripey colourful ones) from Keld to Muker and see dozens of wildflowers (some quite rare), and birds including the oystercatcher. Look out for frogs, they love wet weather!  
  • How long is it since you got properly muddy and stopped acting your age? Have some fun – swoop down some of the Swaledale hills on two wheels from the Dales Bike Centre, Fremington. You’ll really appreciate their excellent cake afterwards...
  • Come rain or shine there's great fun to be had at Bolton Abbey. As you wander through the woods along the surfaced paths let nature’s giant umbrella, the tree canopy, shelter you from the rain and see if you can spot all of nature’s delights in the Strid Wood I Spy 
  • Try geocaching – the rain can even make it more of an adventure. There are locations around the Dales but we love Hackfall and Hester Cox’s special geo cache art trail ​

"There's no such thing as bad weather, only unsuitable clothing" - Alfred Wainwright

If you're looking for some good waterproofs, here are some recommended outdoor clothing shops in the Yorkshire Dales. 
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Easby Abbey

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PictureEasby Abbey by Matt White
The Yorkshire Dales has such a wealth of incredible castles, listed buildings and abbeys that some of them are a little overshadowed. Most people have heard of Fountains Abbey, Bolton Abbey and Jervaulx Abbey and yet Easby Abbey is almost unknown. 

It lies on the fringes of the Yorkshire Dales, by the River Swale, close to the gorgeous historic town of Richmond. There's a beautiful, quite easy walk from Richmond Station (no-longer a station, but now a lovely converted building with a cinema, food businesses and art gallery) along the river to Easby Abbey. 

English Heritage describe Easby Abbey as 'one of the best preserved monasteries of the 12th century Premonstratensian order' (the white canons). It's thought to have stood since 1152 and although it's now in ruins you can still make out the gatehouse, dormitory and refectory. The church is still in use and has some rare 13th century wall paintings. 

Easby is a tiny community of less than 100 people so it's a beautifully tranquil spot in which to rest and reflect. If you enjoy visiting lesser known abbeys in lovely hidden locations, take a trip to see what is left of Coverham Abbey. 

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Dramatic Dales

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PictureMark Cronfield, Fell-Foss Theatre
You'd be forgiven for thinking all the drama of the Yorkshire Dales lies in the fantastic landscapes, but we also have some pretty remarkable small theatres and drama groups.  

Did you know for example that Settle Victoria Hall is the oldest surviving Music Hall in the world? It’s over 165 years old and still an important part of Settle’s cultural life, playing host to performances and events. 

Fell Foss Theatre is much newer, founded quite recently to offer professional theatre and top-quality performances in rural communities across the Yorkshire Dales. Mark Cronfield is currently touring with a dynamic one-man adaptation of Defoe’s classic novel, Robinson Crusoe. 
 
The Georgian Theatre Royal in Richmond has an incredible pedigree, built in 1788, and still has Britain's oldest surviving stage scenery. At the other side of the Dales, in Skipton is a theatre with a difference: the only theatre residing in a working cattle auction! Cows and sheep are sold through the week at Skipton Auction Mart and then at the weekend it’s transformed into a 300-seat venue offering comedy, theatre, and music.
 
We have several dramatic societies who present several productions a year, such as Pateley Bridge Dramatic Society who perform in the delightful Playhouse in Pateley Bridge. The Grassington Players have been entertaining locals and visitors for almost 100 years. In 2012 they staged the world premiere amateur performance of the Calendar Girls play which attracted national media attention; featuring rehearsals in The Dales TV series. 
 


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Nordic walking

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I first became interested in Nordic walking when a friend in Switzerland raved about what good exercise she found it. It's not particularly common in the UK but if you go to Finland, Germany and Austria you'll see a lot of groups of people enjoying Nordic walking. I say 'enjoying' because the Nordic walkers I've seen always look happy, with a real spring in their step. I was really pleased when I found Jane Pickering, a Nordic walking instructor in Middleham. 

So what is Nordic walking? It started when Finnish cross country skiers continued using their ski poles out of skiing season, as part of their training. They found it kept their hearts and lungs in good condition even when there wasn't any snow on the ground, and maintained muscle tone in all their body. Research found that the technique had multiple health and fitness benefits and in the 1980s became an established practice in some European countries. It's just starting to become popular here. 

It's more than just walking with the aid of two sticks. The poles are adjusted to suit the height of the walker (and as I found, you can even adapt them so they are different lengths to suit people like me with one leg longer than the other!), and then used to enhance a normal walking technique.

The use of the poles means that you stand more upright, open the chest, breathe deeper and more effectively, and the upper body and arms get a really good workout as well as the legs. The poles also propel you forward so you can go faster without it feeling like a big effort.

Before I met Jane for a lesson this morning I hadn't really understood why lessons were necessary. It's definitely something you need to learn! You can pick up the basics in one lesson but I think at least a couple are necessary to get the full benefits. It's an odd technique at first, that feels both natural and counter-intuitive at the same time, but you soon get into the 'swing' of it. It's something that anyone of any age and fitness level can try, and as I'd seen when I watched others doing it, I quickly started to smile. Jane is a great teacher, based in Middleham - you can find here details on Nordic Walking UK 

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Here for the beer

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Here for the beer? It must be something in the water... the Yorkshire Dales has plenty of excellent beers and micro breweries. 
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Masham is home to two breweries – Theakston’s and its newer neighbour, the Black Sheep Brewery. Follow the brewing process at Theakston’s Brewery and see a cooper making perfect casks before you visit the in-brewery pub, The Black Bull in Paradise. 
 
Guided tours enable visitors to see the Black Sheep Brewery brewhouse in action and sample a few beers back in the bar. The Black Sheep Bistro offers fine Yorkshire food, including a hint of Black Sheep beer in their Yorkshire Beef and Riggwelter Ale Pie or Beer Battered Fish and Chips. 

Copper Dragon’s one hour’s brewery tour takes you right through the brewing and fermentation process just outside Skipton before you try Golden Pippin or Blonde Obsession or look out for Copper Dragon’s monthly edition cask ales. 

Richmond Brewery Company is housed in Richmond’s former railway station. Watch their artisan brewing in progress with a tour of the brewery and try Stump Cross Ale or Station Ale, named after the home of the brewery.  .
 
Nestling in picturesque Dentdale Dent Brewery supplies cask ale to many locations across the north of England and has a tap-house in Dent at the George and Dragon Hotel.
 
The Wensleydale Brewery, just outside Leyburn, offers small tours if booked in advance.  In February 2013, Geoff and Carl became the youngest Brewery owners in the UK.  Four bottled beers and eight in their cask range, beers can be sampled at the Brewery. 

Other excellent Yorkshire Dales breweries  include the Yorkshire Dales Brewery at Askrigg, the Dark Horse Brewery near Hetton, and the Kirkby Lonsdale Brewery, Settle Brewery,  and  Wharfedale Brewery.

​I feel sure I've missed some Yorkshire Dales breweries? Know any others? Please email

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Extraordinary Sculpture

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PictureJoseph Hayton photographed by Paul Harris
A while ago I was mooching around King Street Workshops in Pateley Bridge where there are several talented makers and artists have their studios. 

I heard a tapping sound coming from one of them so went off to investigate.

In a corner studio sculptor Joseph Hayton was chipping away at a block of stone, sculpting a head as part of a commission. 
 
As I watched him at work, and looked into his studio where there are all manner of works in progress and completion, it soon became obvious that Joe is not only talented but versatile too. His work is already on display in galleries across the country as well as closer to hand, such as the Pillars Past column installation on the old railway turntable in Pateley Bridge. As we talked his passion for stone and bronze became clear, and he showed me some of his favourite pieces. He was particularly passionate about carving heads and human forms, working to commission as well as creating his own figurative pieces. There's an incredible warmth and personality in his work, full of expression. 

Joe was already interested in sculpting clay when he was at school. That early interest stood him in good stead later in life when he started to produce bronge sculptures, first creating in clay then using the lost wax method to cast pieces in bronze. After school it was a natural progression to become an apprentice in stone masonry, before working as a stone mason for several years. 

Joe's studio is open most days including Saturdays but it's best to call ahead in case he's out on a commission. When visiting Pateley Bridge it's worth also driving a short distance up towards Greenhow to see two other very different sculptures: the immense Coldstones Cut, and then look for the tiny mouse carved by The Mouseman at Greenhow cemetery. 

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Planning long distance walks

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PictureImage of Gordale Scar by Paul Harris
It's getting colder and wetter, the leaves are changing colour and dropping. The grass is less the gorgeous green of Spring, more a murky non-colour. The evenings are drawing in, getting darker and darker.

And it's just lovely to be inside, perhaps by an open fire, with books, and maps open, thinking about the Spring.

​It's natural to think of Winter as a time for hibernation, just popping out on longer walks on those lovely bright crisp days but otherwise hunkering down and retreating from the world. 

There's something else you can do now: plan for the Spring, and make 2020 the year you stride out in search of different views. Imagine the satisfaction of completing a long distance route across the Yorkshire Dales? There are plenty to choose from, the most famous being the Pennine Way, and Coast to Coast, both of which intersect the Dales landscape as part of longer routes. Alternatively you might consider the 100-mile long route of Lady Anne's Way stretching from Skipton to Penrith following in the footsteps of the remarkable Lady Anne Clifford of Skipton Castle, or the 90-mile Dales High Way from Saltaire to Appleby-in-Westmorland. 

This year there were celebrations to mark the 50 years since the creation of the 80-mile long Dales Way from Ilkley to Bowness-on-Windermere. If you'd prefer something shorter the Six Peaks Trail from Settle to Kirkby Stephen stretches 'just' 48 miles, while the Yorkshire Three Peaks route is 'only' 24 miles long. 

Luckily there's a wonderful source of help to plan and complete these routes,, in the form of Skyware Press, a small publishing business, started by Chris and Tony Grogan. In 2007 they had the idea of creating their own long distance route and spent much of that year walking in the Western Dales. In 2008 they published the Dales High Way Route Guide, leading to future publications and many miles covered. Take a look at their website for details of the long distance routes their guidebooks cover. Handily they also have films online to show you some of the highlights of the walks, and help you choose your next adventure. 

Route map below is from Skyware's website. 

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Bonfires - and Bartle

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I have such lovely memories of Bonfire Night from my childhood, I never miss going to one each year. It's bound up with so many traditions, many associated with food.

When we were little we might go to a community bonfire, battling crowds and getting as close to the heat of the fire as possible, oohing and aahing at the fireworks.

But my favourite events were when we had a fire at home with neighbours.


At that time there were far more 'home fires' and TV news used to contain warnings of the dangers of setting off fireworks at home or leaving bonfires unattended.

People don't seem to bother making Guys any more but I like to create something topical (it's been Trump a couple of times already). Thinking about it, that's probably not very nice of me but there is something cathartic about creating something you subsequently burn. 

The fire itself holds a primordial attraction.The heat, smell, crackling sounds and colours of the licking fire always seem so familiar and yet so magical. I love the age-old sense of gathering to gaze in awe at the bonfire, and then the fireworks.

A large part of my enjoyment of bonfire night, and part of the reason I like to have them at home, is thanks to the food and associated traditions. Around this time of year my mum starts to make her delicious Parkin again (she's strict about keeping to the seasons, and when she's Prime Minister - can't be that much longer surely? - says she will outlaw sale of daffodils before Christmas). Every time she hands over the latest batch she reminds me that it's best left for a few days before eating. I've never managed to find out...

Then there are the roast chestnuts, the home-made bonfire toffee, the mulled wine... and roast potatoes. I'm quite obsessive about potatoes, particularly roast ones and pretty good at them, including the camp fire variety. Which is why I felt very smug when I heard the BBC Radio 4 Food Programme about bonfire food, and Michelin-starred chef, Tommy Banks from the Black Swan at Oldsted ruined his by overcooking them.

There are community bonfires across the Yorkshire Dales, varying from smaller affairs such as in Reeth and other fancier bonfire 'events' such as at Bolton Abbey. There's another Yorkshire Dales tradition of fire-burning that takes place every year on the Saturday closest to St. Bartholomew's Day on 24th August. 

The Burning of Bartle is an odd tradition in West Burton. The road is closed and a man carries a straw Guy called Bartle through the village along the main road, stopping to have a shot of alcohol at pubs and houses as they go. Residents stand and watch, with their own glass and then they set down the Bartle and set it alight. No one quite knows why but it's thought it's something to do with a sheep thief. The song they sing isn't very illuminating either: 

“In Penhill Crags he tore his rags
At Hunter’s Thorn he blew his horn
At Capplebank Stee he brake his knee
At Grisgill Beck he brake his neck
At Wadham’s End he couldn’t fend
At Grisgill End he made his end
Shout, lads, shout.
”

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    Sherlock-holmes-yorkshire-dales
    Signs
    Silage Or Hay?
    Simple Ways To Enjoy Nature
    Skipton
    Skipton Castle
    Skipton Castle Woods
    Sloe Gin
    Smallest Art Gallery In The World
    Solitude And Silence
    Speak Sheep
    Spotting Spring
    Squeezes And Kissing Gates
    Stainforth & Leaping Salmon
    Starry Skies
    Stay Cool
    Stiles
    Stonehenge Of The Dales
    Stories Of Semerwater
    Stories Of The Dales
    Stories Of The Vault
    Studfold's Magical World
    Swaledale Festival
    Swaledale Museum
    Swaledale Secret Garden
    Swaledale Sheep
    Swale Trail
    Swift Trail
    Tan Hill Inn
    Tennants
    Terrible Knitters Of Dent
    The Buttertubs
    The Dalesman
    The End Of The Road
    The Hills Are Alive...
    The Pennine Way
    Thornborough Cider
    Thornborough Henges
    Three Peaks Arts Trail
    Thwaite & Attenborough's Forerunners
    Tombola & Raffles
    Town End Farm Shop
    Tractor Love
    Traffic Jams Dales Style
    Transports Of Delight
    Trees That Talk
    Tupping Time
    Underground Wonders
    Vicar On A 3-wheeler
    Village Greens
    Vintage Coach Trip
    Volunteers
    Walking In The Yorkshire Dales
    Walks
    Waterfalls
    Wensleydale Cheese
    Wensleydale Experience
    Wensleydale Railway
    Wensley Wonders
    West Burton
    What Makes A Good Yorkshire Dales Pub
    When It Rains In The Yorkshire Dales
    Wild Garlic & The Good Life
    Wild Swimming
    Wishing Trees
    Wonders Of Wool
    Wool In The Yorkshire Dales
    Wriggly Tin
    Yellow Cheer
    Yockenthwaite - Centre Of The Dales
    Yorkshire Dales Animal Artists
    Yorkshire Dales Books & Bookshops
    Yorkshire Dales Curiosities
    Yorkshire Dales National Park Features & History
    Yorkshire Dales Shepherdess
    Yorkshire Three Peaks
    Yorkshire Trails


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