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Loving local

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PictureHawes by Guy Carpenter
I have a strong memory of going to our local shop when I was about 15. There was always a queue, in part thanks to the sign on the counter: 'local news desk'. It was tongue-in-cheek but also true.

Almost every one stopped to talk, ask about families and exchange news. At 15 I was anxious to be on my way and out into the world so I found it really frustrating, but it was that sense of community that brought me home again. 

We don't have the biggest selection of shops in the Yorkshire Dales, but you do have a sense that there's real heart in every business. 

There's a big difference between shopping in independent businesses in the Yorkshire Dales and in large shops in bigger towns. When you walk into a shop, gallery, cafe, pub or any other small business here, you're likely to be greeted by the owner, a member of their family or someone who lives locally and has worked there for a while. There's a sense of welcome and connection. It doesn't take long before they remember you and what you like. There's banter in the butchers, the wine shop owner who always remembers your favourite wine even when you don't, the gallery owner who can second-guess not only your preferences but those of the friends you've bought for in the past. 

Shopping can take a bit longer here, as you go from shop to shop in search of each of their specialities. But that's a good thing. Slowing down can do us all good, and the conversations along the way are uplifting and satisfying. You're not just spending money in a shop - you're investing in a sense of community. It might be easy for me to drive to the nearest supermarket but they won't remember me next week, nor will they gather up produce and take it out to the person on a mobility scooter outside, checking that they're well. Shops here perform a service beyond their basic sales. 

Research found that when you shop locally, for every £10 you spend, about £50 is generated in the local economy through the multiplier effect. You spend £10 in the grocers, and then they go and buy a paper from the newsagents, who pays a local window-cleaner for their services, who can then afford dance lessons for their daughter in the village hall, and so it goes on. 

Another benefit of shopping in the Yorkshire Dales is that each market town is genuinely different. You won't find the same products or shops on every High Street. Visit Hawes, Richmond, Masham, Settle, Pateley Bridge, Skipton, Leyburn, Sedbergh, Kirkby Lonsdale, Kirkby Stephen, Grassington and Ingleton, and you'll soon see just how different they are. 

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Yorkshire Dales Pub Safari

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Fancy a visit to a couple of Yorkshire Dales pubs but not so keen on driving? Here's a good idea - a Pub Safari with Mountain Goat.

Imagine the enjoyment of going to two or three different pubs, sampling an ale here and there, seeing the gorgeous Dales scenery along the way, with a guide who can tell you more about the area. 

Mountain Goat cater for small groups, picking up from York or within the Yorkshire Dales in one of their comfortable minibuses. Their tours are always carefully researched, and aim to take you off the beaten track to experience first-hand some of the things that are usually only accessible to those travelling by car. 

The idea of the pub safari is to support local pubs, to give visitors an insight into Dales life and villages, and learn a bit about the area at the same time. They're ideal for groups of friends and family who don't want to have to force anyone to be a 'designated driver', and take away the hassle of finding isolated pubs in hidden locations! 

Their pub safari routes take in different types of pub, such as the awarding winning community pub, George and Dragon, somewhere like the Kings Arms in Askrigg which doubled as the Drovers Arms in the last TV version of All Creatures Great & Small (new series currently in production) and then maybe on to the famous Tan Hill Inn where Vera has been recently filmed, and well known as England's highest inn. 

The tours can include a sample of local ale at each stop, perhaps with a starter in one, main course in the next and pudding at the last. For more details see their website. 

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Lead mining in the Yorkshire Dales

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Wandering through the peaceful Yorkshire Dales, it's hard to imagine that the area was once a much more industrial landscape, full of lead miners.

There are lead ore deposits between Nidderdale and Wharfedale and in Arkengarthdale, Swaledale and Wensleydale.

Moulded blocks of lead, or 'pig irons" have been found in the Yorkshire Dales dating back as far as Roman times, when British lead was exported to Rome for use on roofs and to make paint. 

In the middle ages, lead was used to make weapons, water pipes and for stained glass windows. Lead mining reached its peak during the 18th and 19th century, when Britain was the world's leading lead producer. 

Lead mining was a horrible dirty and risky business, involving men, women and children in hard manual labour. At first bell pits were dug, with techniques developing to fit the landscape. "Hushing" was used on hillsides such as Gunnerside Ghyl, where a dam was built at the top of the mining area, collecting water until the dame was broken and water scoured the topsoil, taking with it stones to expose the lead veins. Levels were dug into the hillsides through caves such as Devils Hole near Grinton Smelt Mill. 
 
The last Swaledale mine closed in 1912, but there are traces from the lead mining industry across the Yorkshire Dales.

You can see evidence of the former lead mining industry on Grassington Moor and on the road between Grassington and Greenhow near Stump Cross, as well as in numerous locations around Swaledale and Arkengarthdale, such as Old Gang Smelt Mill, and Surrender Mine Swaledale. 

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Thornborough Cider

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The Yorkshire Dales may not seem the most obvious place to find excellent cider. Hidden away on the fringes of the Dales is Thornborough, a tiny hamlet where a former university music lecturer is creating his own form of apple alchemy. 

From his originally scooping up apples and making an experimental batch of cider, Kingsley Ash has gone on to create a strong business, continuing to use traditional methods of cider-making to win awards. 

We first drank Thornborough Cider on the recommendation of local chef, Jon Vennell. If he says something is good, it's good! A little later we met Kingsley who offered to take the surplus apples from our trees and turn them into cider. If you still associate cider drinking with the mass-produced version 'enjoyed' by adolescents, you need to try Thornborough Cider as it's a much drier, more sophisticated drink. The apple content is over 90% (mass produced versions contain only around 30% apples). It's naturally sparkling so you can even drink it as an alternative to champagne!

Since he began making cider, Kingsley has planted more apple trees around Thornborough and supplies fine restaurants like Vennells in Masham and good quality wine shops.

​I recently came across this short film made by multi-talented Jon Vennells, who also owns 
Swift Drones - it's great to see what goes into creating Thornborough Cider. You'll also see that Thornborough is quite a special little hamlet with a hidden treasure - the henges, which are really shown to great advantage by the drone footage. Kingsley created the music for the film. 
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Cobbles, stones & pavements

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One of the many things I love about the Yorkshire Dales is the way that layer upon layer of history is silently told through varied textures in each village and market town. The landscape is always beautiful and the aspect that most notice, so sometimes we miss the less appreciated beauty beneath our feet.

Walk slowly through any Dales village and you'll soon see what I mean: cobbles, flagstones and pavements, each subtly different, painstakingly created many years ago. Countless feet - human, horse, sheep, cow, dog - have trodden those routes, each with their own story. 
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Kilnsey

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You could easily drive through Kilnsey in Wharfedale and barely realise you've been to the village, but you're very unlikely to miss its most distinctive feature. Kilnsey Crag is 170 feet high with a dramatic 40 ft overhang. Look closely and you're likely to see climbers tackling the challenge.

​ As you'd expect, the views from the top of the crag are stunning. J.M.W. Turner enjoyed visiting in 1816, recording his view in this sketch. Tennants Arms pub sits in the shadow of the crag, a traditional pub serving excellent quality food. 

Close by is the entrance to Kilnsey Park, an award-winning attraction that was originally focused around the fishing ponds which you can see from the road, and which now features children's activities, fun fishing, opportunities to get close up to farm animals, cafe and a programme of activities. Owners, Amy and Jamie Roberts are passionate about helping visitors to enjoy and understand Yorkshire Dales nature and wildlife, and have a red squirrel breeding programme. The Holy Smokery is now run by chef Jake Buchan who uses trout caught on the Kilnsey Park Estate to produce smoked fish, and a range of charcuterie. 

The name of the smokehouse refers to Kilnsey's connections to the Fountains Abbey estate. Alice de Romillie, heiress of Skipton Castle gave a large piece of land at Kilnsey to the monks at Fountains Abbey. It's thought that the Old Hall in Kilnsey was once an administrative centre for Fountains Abbey monks who used the ancient spring wells and bred fish at Kilnsey Park, as well as farming enormous flocks of sheep. 

Kilnsey's history goes back even further, to Roman times, with the creation of Mastiles Lane, a Roman marching road which then became an important drovers' route to take sheep from Fountains Abbey to summer pastures. It's now a much loved walking route. 

Kilnsey Show has been delighting visitors since 1897. It takes place on the Tuesday after the August bank holiday and has remained true to its original aims to promote and showcase farming in the Yorkshire Dales. The 1.5 Kilnsey Crag Race is a tricky and very competitive race up and down the crag. 



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Stiles, squeezes and kissing gates

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I particularly love the many make-shift gates that were clearly made many years ago, often 'it'll do for now' creations, bound together with baler twine, that have somehow managed to hang on for years and years.

Sometimes there are more sophisticated solutions, with proper springs or weighted rocks to help the gate to close, but mostly they're very simple affairs.

Kissing gates dispense with the need for a 'please close the gate' sign and reduce the chances of an errant tup finding the ewes. They're easy for humans to use but tricky for livestock to figure out. The gate swings so that they're just kissing room to pass. There are many variations of this - there's even a double one along the riverside walk at Burnsall. 

There are countless wooden stiles abound, often quite rickety and some  with little dog doors at the bottom. Whatever the format, stiles, gates and wall squeezes abound, often beautiful in their simplicity and usefulness. 

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An usual swing gate at the church in Burnsall
Anyone who enjoys walking in the Yorkshire Dales will be familiar with the many different methods landowners use to enable walkers to use footpaths without letting out their livestock. 

Miles and miles of dry stone walls criss cross the landscape, enclosing fields where sheep and cows graze. You'll spot some breaks or 'squeezes' in stone walls, created by vertical stones, which you can just about manage to squeeze through. You'll also find layered steps creating out of stone slabs walking over a dry stone wall. 
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A tight squeeze in a dry stone wall gap
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Temporary gates that last for decades, held up by baler twine
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Beautiful views opening up at Stainforth. Image by Andrew Locking
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Ribblesdale

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PictureStainforth by Andrew Locking, Andrewswalks.co.uk
 No one can agree on exactly how many dales there are in the Yorkshire Dales, nor which are the most beautiful, or best to visit. However I think we can all agree that Ribblesdale is packed with the 'big names' of Yorkshire Dales attractions and activities. 

The River Ribble starts on the moor above Newby Head, at Gavel Gap and flows on towards the Irish Sea. Ribblesdale is the area from the source of the River Ribble until Settle (or Helllifield depending who you speak to), after which it becomes known as the Ribble Valley. 

Along its route you'll find the famous and stunning Ribblehead Viaduct, along the route of the much-lovedSettle-Carlisle Railway. Many visitors are drawn to Ribblesdale to enjoy the wonderful walking routes including part of the Pennine Way and the Dales High Way.  

Ribblesdale is home to Yorkshire’s famous Three Peaks, Whernside, Ingleborough and Pen-y-ghent, popular challenges for walkers, cyclists and fell-runners alike. At 2415 ft, Whernside is the highest point in North Yorkshire. With the highs come the lows - in this case deep into the ground. On the southern slopes of Ingleborough lies Gaping Gill, one of the largest underground open chambers in the country and just one of the numerous potholes and cave systems to explore. The more-fainted may prevent less arduous adventure in Ingleborough Cave near Clapham and Ingleton. 
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​This area’s history is written in its landscape. You can find the remnants of walls dating from the pre-Roman era, old drovers’ lanes, dry-stone walls, sheep creeps, wash dubs, bee boles, packhorse bridges and lime kilns, including the remarkable Hoffman Kiln. If you visit in Autumn you may even be able to see the spectacle of salmon leaping at Stainforth. 

Images: View from Gauber Bunk Barn by Katie Hawkins; Ribblehead Viaduct by Terry Jackman; Stainforth by Andrew Locking of AndrewsWalks

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Hibernation

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Do you ever feel like it's time to hibernate?

As Autumn moves from bright cold days when the sun glints on the russet and orange leaves, into a more soggy Winter, it's easy to feel like it's time to step back from the world. 

​It's lovely to be cosy indoors but I think it's even more enjoyable after some kind of outdoor activity, getting wet, cold and a little tired, and then coming inside to enjoy the contrast. 

If you do feel like hibernating in the Dales, here are a few ideas to help you find some comfort and joy. 

First of all you might like to pick up some supplies to see you through a long wintry evening - farm shops like Keelham and Town End Farm Shop are cosy places anyway and full of treats.

Once you've got your food and drink supplies, you might want to consider your entertainment. You could go old school with a Yorkshire Dales themed jigsaw from Yorkshire Dales Millennium Trust, or maybe visit one of our great independent book shops. You might also enjoy an evening by the fireside with Tales of the Dales by Ian Scott Massie. My best memories of cosy winter evenings as a child centre around days when we'd gone out for a bracing walk, come back and enjoyed a roast dinner and then settled down to enjoy watching James Herriot. How about a touch of nostalgia, watching the Dales of old with a box of All Creatures Great and Small. The new version is currently being filmed in the Dales and will be on our screens late in 2020. 

If craft is your thing, then you could add to the cosy feeling, by creating something warming with wool, or you could look into learning a new craft somewhere like ArtisOn or Farfield Mill. 

If your idea of hibernation involves a convivial atmosphere, with a few happy souls, a bar and an open fire, then you'll definitely enjoy a cosy Yorkshire Dales pub. 

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Leyburn - full of hidden surprises

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PictureLeyburn Shawl - image by Guy Carpenter
Is Leyburn Yorkshire's most surprising market town? So much of it is hidden, many miss its most special gems. Many visitors arrive in the market place and assume Leyburn simply consists of that one area. The reality is that many of its charms are behind the buildings you first see.

Start with the market place and you'll find some unexpected delights.  Few shops can boost such fine views as those from the top floor of 
Milners of Leyburn. The amazing hardware and cookware selection of the Aladdin's cave For House & Home has to be seen to be believed. You'd never guess from the unassuming entrance of Campbell's that this is not just a shop - it's an emporium, attracting gourmets and fine wine enthusiasts from far afield.

Wander just off the market place and you'll discover Emma Sedman Jewellery, the Little Alf Shop, and other interesting and quirky shops, with a really good selection of pubs and cafes. The Auction Mart is an experience in itself! Tucked away round the corner is the Old School House which has a regular programme of events and film screenings. 

Walk out of the market place towards the Shawl and you'll not only be treading in the footsteps of Mary, Queen of Scots but be treated to wonderful views and an incredible playground.


A very short drive out of Leyburn will take you to Tennants. In addition to their regular auction sales, Tennants now have an interesting exhibition space and the Garden Rooms' - the popular cafe, restaurant, bar and gift shop with regular events.

Nearby is Inspired Chocolate where you can see chocolates being made (the chocolate shoes and pizzas are popular!) and take part in chocolate-making workshops from time to time.  ​Not far away is Constable Burton Hall, famous for its annual Tulip Festival. 

Leyburn has a great programme of events too - look out for the Dales Festival of Food & Drink, Wensleydale Tournament of Song, Leyburn 1940s Weekend, and Wensleydale Agricultural Show. 

There is parking behind the market place near the Auction Mart. For a real sense of arrival, why not take a trip on the Wensleydale Railway?  

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    Dales 30
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    Gin In The Dales
    Glencroft Wool And The Three Peaks
    Good Things About Rain
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    Guide To Health & Happiness
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    Hackfall - Magical Woods
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    Here For The Beer
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    Highland Cattle
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    Historical Re-enactments
    Hoffmann Kiln
    Honesty Boxes
    Horse Riding In The Yorkshire Dales
    How Many Yorkshire Dales?
    Ingleborough Cave
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    James Herriot TV Locations
    Janet's Foss
    Jervaulx Abbey
    Joy Of Small Things
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    Keld
    Keld Community Welcoming Visitors
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    Knights Templar In Wensleydale
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    Middleham - Windsor Of The North?
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    Silage Or Hay?
    Simple Ways To Enjoy Nature
    Skipton
    Skipton Castle
    Skipton Castle Woods
    Sloe Gin
    Smallest Art Gallery In The World
    Solitude And Silence
    Speak Sheep
    Spotting Spring
    Squeezes And Kissing Gates
    Stainforth & Leaping Salmon
    Starry Skies
    Stay Cool
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    Stonehenge Of The Dales
    Stories Of Semerwater
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    Studfold's Magical World
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    Tan Hill Inn
    Tennants
    Terrible Knitters Of Dent
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    The Dalesman
    The End Of The Road
    The Hills Are Alive...
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    Wensley Wonders
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    What Makes A Good Yorkshire Dales Pub
    When It Rains In The Yorkshire Dales
    Wild Garlic & The Good Life
    Wild Swimming
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    Wonders Of Wool
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    Askrigg
    Attractions
    Austwick Cuckoos
    Autumn In The Yorkshire Dales
    Aysgarth Rock Garden
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    Bed & Breakfasts
    Behave Yourself
    Behind The Scenes At The Show
    Belted Galloways
    Best Dales Views
    Betty's Vintage Hut
    Bilberrying
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    Black Bull In Paradise
    Bluebell Woods
    Blue Lion & Black Panther
    Bolton Abbey & Stepping Stones
    Bolton Castle
    Bonfires & Bartle
    Books And Boots
    Bridges & River Crossings
    Brimham Rocks
    Brymor Ice Cream
    Burnsall
    By The Mouseman
    Cafe Carvings & Contentment
    Cake!
    Call Of The Curlew
    Calm
    Carperby & James Herriot's Honeymoon
    Castleberg
    Cautley Spout & The Pub With No Beer
    Chocolate & Sweets
    Clapham
    Classic Cars
    Coast To Coast
    Cobbles Stones & Pavements
    Coldstones Cut
    Corpses And Wool
    Country Shows
    Cover Bridge To Middleham
    Cow Parsley
    Crackpot Hall
    Create At Broadrake
    Create A Wildflower Meadow
    Creative Dales
    Cricket
    Culloden Tower
    Cycling & Mountain Biking
    Dales 30
    Dales Alphabet Of Activities
    Dalesbus
    Dales Countryside Museum
    Dales Galleries
    Dales Inspiration
    Dales Place Names
    Dales Way
    Distinctive Dales
    Dog Friendly Dales
    Don't Get Lost!
    Doors And Windows
    Dramatic Dales
    Drover & Packhorse Routes
    Dry Stone Walls
    Easby Abbey
    East Witton
    Embsay To Bolton Abbey Steam Railway
    Exercise & Green Spaces
    Extraordinary Sculpture
    Famous Five Style Ice-cream
    Farfield Mill
    Farmers
    Farm Fresh Milk
    Feizor & Elaine's Tea Rooms
    Fell Running
    Ferret Racing & Cosy Pub
    Field Barns & Cow'uses
    Filming James Herriot
    Film & TV Locations
    Fleece To Fabric
    Fountains Abbey
    Free Audio Trails
    Fresh Air
    Friends Of The Dales
    Gardens In The Dales
    Garsdale & A Special Dog Story
    Georgian Theatre Royal
    Ghostly Goings-on
    Gin In The Dales
    Glencroft Wool And The Three Peaks
    Good Things About Rain
    Gordale Scar
    Go Where The Grass Is Greener
    Grassington
    Guide To Health & Happiness
    Gunnerside
    Hackfall - Magical Woods
    Happy Positive People
    Hares
    Hawthorn
    Hay Meadows
    Hebden - Wonderful Food & Drink
    Here For The Beer
    Heritage Open Days
    Hibernation
    Highland Cattle
    Himalayan Garden
    Historical Re-enactments
    Hoffmann Kiln
    Honesty Boxes
    Horse Riding In The Yorkshire Dales
    How Many Yorkshire Dales?
    Ingleborough Cave
    Ingleton Colours
    Ingleton Lido
    James Herriot TV Locations
    Janet's Foss
    Jervaulx Abbey
    Joy Of Small Things
    Keelham Farm Shop
    Keld
    Keld Community Welcoming Visitors
    Kettlewell
    Kettlewell Scarecrow Festival
    Kilnsey Park
    Kilnsey Village
    Kingfishers
    Kirkby Lonsdale
    Kirkby Malham
    Kirkby Stephen
    Knights Templar In Wensleydale
    Lady Hill
    Lambing
    Langthwaite & James Herriot
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    Lead Mining
    Leyburn Full Of Hidden Surprises
    Limestone Pavements
    Linger In Linton
    Little Alf
    Live A Little Every Day
    Llama & Alpaca Trekking
    Lovely Lichens
    Loving Local
    Lynchets And Ancient Farming
    Malham Peregrines
    Malham Safari
    Markenfield Hall
    Marking Time
    Masham Market Place
    Masham's Creative Community
    Masham Sheep Fair
    Middleham - Windsor Of The North?
    Money Does Grow On Trees
    Mud-larking
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    Nature's Cure
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    Photography Courses In The Dales
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    Queen Mary's Shawl
    Quirky
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    Reeth
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    Reliable Weather Forecast?
    Rescue Services
    Ribblehead Viaduct
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    Richmond Station
    Ride2Stride Festival
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    Romantic Ruins
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    Secret Coverdale
    Sedbergh
    Sedbergh Treasure Map
    Seeing Differently
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    Settle Falconry
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    Signs
    Silage Or Hay?
    Simple Ways To Enjoy Nature
    Skipton
    Skipton Castle
    Skipton Castle Woods
    Sloe Gin
    Smallest Art Gallery In The World
    Solitude And Silence
    Speak Sheep
    Spotting Spring
    Squeezes And Kissing Gates
    Stainforth & Leaping Salmon
    Starry Skies
    Stay Cool
    Stiles
    Stonehenge Of The Dales
    Stories Of Semerwater
    Stories Of The Dales
    Stories Of The Vault
    Studfold's Magical World
    Swaledale Festival
    Swaledale Museum
    Swaledale Secret Garden
    Swaledale Sheep
    Swale Trail
    Swift Trail
    Tan Hill Inn
    Tennants
    Terrible Knitters Of Dent
    The Buttertubs
    The Dalesman
    The End Of The Road
    The Hills Are Alive...
    The Pennine Way
    Thornborough Cider
    Thornborough Henges
    Three Peaks Arts Trail
    Thwaite & Attenborough's Forerunners
    Tombola & Raffles
    Town End Farm Shop
    Tractor Love
    Traffic Jams Dales Style
    Transports Of Delight
    Trees That Talk
    Tupping Time
    Underground Wonders
    Vicar On A 3-wheeler
    Village Greens
    Vintage Coach Trip
    Volunteers
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    Walks
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    Wensleydale Cheese
    Wensleydale Experience
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    West Burton
    What Makes A Good Yorkshire Dales Pub
    When It Rains In The Yorkshire Dales
    Wild Garlic & The Good Life
    Wild Swimming
    Wishing Trees
    Wonders Of Wool
    Wool In The Yorkshire Dales
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    Yockenthwaite - Centre Of The Dales
    Yorkshire Dales Animal Artists
    Yorkshire Dales Books & Bookshops
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