As you come into Middleham, there's a good chance you'll get two immediate clues to its history.  It's likely you'll also spot a race horse or stables. The houses clustered around the market place are grander than in most small Dales village. It was once even known as "Windsor of the North".

At the time of King Richard III, Middleham was an important market town and political centre.  
Middleham Castle is now hidden from immediate view from the roadside, but you'll soon find it behind the houses in the market place. It was Richard III's childhood home and extensive remains of the fortified palace can still be seen. This is the best place to start your Middleham visit. Children love to run over the drawbridge into the castle, crossing the dry moat. On a clear day you'll enjoy fantastic views of Wensleydale from the viewing platform. A small exhibition highlights the castle's history and there's a replica of the 15th-century Middleham Jewel which was found nearby. English Heritage hold some excellent recreation events here. 

Richard III came to learn the skills of knighthood, and even now there's something a little stately about Middleham. From the castle walk a little way up the hill to see the gallops, the area on the High Moor where race-horses are trained. If you come early in the morning, it's a particularly imposing sight to watch the horses galloping on the misty moor and then clip clopping down the hill to their respective stables. Middleham has around 15 racehorse trainers and stables and is home to over 500 horses. Look out for details of the Open Stables event around April each year or arrange to take a tour with Middleham Racing Tours. There are about 15 racecourses within a reasonable distance of Middleham so it's no surprise that it's become such an important training ground for horses and jockeys.

As you wander around Middleham, look for the signs detailing some of its history in the market place and note the finer details of the buildings. It pays to peek through alleyways and courtyards: you'll either spot a fine view of the surrounding Wensleydale hills, horses looking over their stables or some stunning architectural features. In 1607 it is documented that Middleham was important enough to have a Royal Court. At that time all residents of the forest of Wensleydale fell under its jurisdiction.
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You'll notice that many of the houses around the market place were built around 200 years ago, which is also when many stables were established. When you've enjoyed browsing around the market place and discovered the antique shops, there's an excellent choice of pubs for a meal or drink. The White Swan is the most upmarket, while across the road you'll find the Richard III where jockeys, stable hands and locals meet to exchange gossip and racing tips over home-cooked food.  

Good images by Guy Carpenter. Blurry, much less good ones are mine!

Askrigg is a small village that many pass through as they travel the beautiful route onwards towards Swaledale. Pause to explore and you'll discover some surprising little gems. I think the cakes and pies at Humble Pie are a star attraction in their own right and well worth a trip!

Many visitors come to Askrigg thanks to its fame as a key location when the BBC filmed James Herriot's All Creatures Great and Small, using one of the houses as Skelldale House and the King's Arms as the Drovers'. Look out for photos from the filming in the pub. The King's Arms was built as a coaching inn by John Pratt a renowned racehorse breeder who kept his hunters and hounds in the yard behind the pub. You can still see the semi-circular enclosure although the buildings now belong to a holiday company. 

Askrigg's history goes back much further, with some of its wealth created when the Cistercian monks Jervaulx Abbey) grazed their sheep here, but it was really at its peak in the 18th century thanks to knitting and the textile industry. The market cross dates back to 1830. Askrigg was also celebrated as a centre for clock-making, starting with John Ogden in 1680, and continuing through the centuries. You can see some examples from this time in the Dales Countryside Museum in Hawes. Over 60 years ago Marie Hartley and Joan Ingilby told the history of Askrigg in their celebrated book, 'Yorkshire Village'. 

See if you can spot interesting features such as the lovely little bridge at the top of the village, the lions (look up!), the market cross, and bull ring set into the cobbles. There are several pubs, and a couple of small shops including the fascinating Askrigg Antiques, Books & Collectables shop full of interesting treasures. The Parish Church of St. Oswalds dates from 1446. Pevsner declaimed the nave ceiling to be the "finest in the North Riding". The font is thought to date from before the 15th century.  

In Spring sheep are brought down from the moor to lamb in a more sheltered area. This short film (scroll down) captures this time beautifully. ​

Kettlewell was made famous by the Calendar Girls, when film-makers used its as the location for the village of Knapely. You'll probably recognise the distinctive bridge with its black and white sign posts. 

If you're looking for a base from which to walk, Kettlewell is the perfect spot. It has a good range of pubs, the wonderful Zarina's cafe (a little hidden across the tiny beck) and places to stay. You can buy refreshments at the village shop. 

The Dales Way crosses through Kettlewell and many walkers come for the challenge of the nearby Great Whernside (2,310ft) and Buckden Pike (2,303 ft). You might want to wander up to nearby Buckden or Starbeck too. 

If you prefer just a brief wander around the village, look out for the church, the photogenic Cam Gill Beck, some ancient buildings (some dating back to the mid 1600s), the village stocks and the Kettlewell weather stone. A distinctive feature are the many dry stone walls, converging in the surrounding fields, along with the grassed terraces, worm away by successive generations of sheep. 

The Kettlewell Scarecrow Festival was the first of such events and attracts visitors each summer who come to follow the trail and spot the themed characters displayed around the village. 

Close to Kettlewell is the incredibly imposing Kilnsey Crag, overlooking Kilnsey Park where you can fish for your supper and enjoy their newly revamped nature trail. 

At first glance, Muker in Swaledale is a tiny place but it certainly packs its punch in a small space. At the confluence of the River Swale and Straw Beck, it's a great base from which to walk. You might want to start with a tea or cake before you get started. The Village Shop also doubles up at a tea room.  Almost next door is the Old School which combines a gallery with a lovely garden at the back and a cafe where you can choose your cake and coffee and then drop the money into the honesty box. 

Before setting off on your walk, you might want to pop into Swaledale Woollens. They stock an incredible variety of woollen goods, many hand-made locally by an army of around 30 people who hand-knit and crochet local wools. 

Muker is beautiful all year round but it's particularly wonderful in June when the wildflower meadows are in full flower. Make sure you stick to the paths - there are flagstoned paths in some of the fields so you can get closer to admire the myriad varieties of wildflowers. 

Over recent years the hay meadows have become even more precious. Farmers work with the Yorkshire Dales National Park and Yorkshire Dales Millennium Trust to use more traditional haymaking methods and cut the hay after the wildflowers have had time to set their seed, ensuring future crops are just as lush. You can get another insight into farming life at the Muker Show on the first Wednesday in September. It's one of the many times you'll get a chance to hear the marvellous Muker Silver Band, established in 1897 and now performing through out Swaledale and Wensleydale. 

Make sure you peak inside the lovely St. Mary's Church in Muker. I'm fascinated by the pictures of previous vicars including the one below on a tricycle. Having walked up and down some of the neighbouring hills and parishes, I can't imagine he got very far on his bike although I love the idea of him free-wheeling and whooshing down the hills! From the graveyard you can peak over the wall into some of Muker's wonderful wild flower meadows. I especially like the abandoned door on the roof of one the old farm buildings. 

When you're ready for more substantial refreshments, it's time for the Farmer's Arms. It's a proper pub-pub, with stone flags on the floor, an open fire in Winter (and Spring, and Autumn, and sometimes even Summer...) and they welcome walkers, dogs and families. 

First of all, if you don't want to stand out as a visitor, remember it's pronounced "Massam" (meaning: Massa's ham as in saxon chieftain's farmstead). Masham isn't large but it has an incredible concentration of artistic and cultural activities and people, so much so that locals now consider it to be Yorkshire's most creative community. 

Park in the main market square and then head for the small information office in the little market place where you can pick up a map and the trail leaflets for the Acorns Walk, which goes along the river and the Swifts Trail, a sculpture trail in and around the market place.

The same building also houses a small gallery - the Blue Light Gallery, named after its former use as a police station. You'll see a blue plaque on the wall outside the Information & Community Office telling the story of the Viking Bones! More were recently found when the doctor's surgery was extended. 

Depending on your interests, you might want to wander around the three other galleries - Masham Gallery, Nolon Stacey Gallery and Uredale Glass, visit the two breweries (Black Sheep and Theakston's) or perhaps go to see the saxon cross at St Mary's Church and the carvings and artwork within the truly beautiful church. The walk down Millgate and around the river back to the square takes about half an hour and is worth doing - you may spot the resident otters and kingfisher. 

Many people like to stock up on Masham sausages or pork pies before going home and if you have a sweet tooth you'll enjoy a trip to Bah Humbugs or Jonevas. There's no shortage of places to eat and drink, whether you want a quick snack or more substantial meal in one of the pubs. Please note: many business still close on a Thursday and Mondays in winter. 

It's worth staying longer! Here are our recommended places to stay in and around Masham: 

Bank Villa Bed and Breakfast in a Georgian house with a beautiful garden has 5 immaculate rooms and offers a delicious Taste of Yorkshire breakfast. You can also take over the whole house for your own private house party when Liz will also prepare a special dinner. 
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The Bivouac at Ilton: comfortable and cosy woodland shacks, yurts and bunkbarn with a quirky cafe attached. The Bivouac is set in a hidden setting just outside Masham and is perfect for families

Swinton Park is a country house hotel in acres of parkland, with a cookery school, new spa, bistro and excellent restaurant. You can also visit for afternoon tea in one of the beautiful and opulent lounge. 

If you've driven between Grassington and Pateley Bridge on the B6265 you've probably seen the castle battlement-style outline of Coldstones Cut on the horizon, and maybe wondered what it is. It's well-worth visiting, especially on a clear day. 

Park in the car park next to Toft Gate Lime Kiln. This curious structure tells the story of much of the surrounding landscape. You'll notice plenty of grassy hillocks and curious dimples in the landscape between Toft Gate and Grassington - many of these are remnants of the limestone industry. You'll have noticed the flue stack from the road.

​The horizontal long flue still remains so you can see the immense scale of the previous lime kiln. The surrounding hills were rich in limestone which was dug out and then heated by fires in the kiln to make quickline, used in agriculture through out the 19th century. There's a short trail with information panels around the lime kiln, explaining how it worked. 

From here, you'll see the footpath curving up the hill to Coldstones Cut. It's not a long walk although it gets a little steep towards the end. It's apparently Yorkshire's biggest and highest public artwork, and is almost impossible to describe or fully photograph! All I can say is that it's definitely worth visiting. Children and adults enjoy exploring it although opinions are split on the first approach to the artwork which bizarrely feels like you're entering a short one way street.

The huge stones were taken from the nearby quarry and are incredibly impressive in their sheer size. There are two sort-of-turrets with narrow paths curving around them until you suddenly emerge and look out - for a fantastic "top of the world" feeling. On a clear day the views are some of the most stunning in the country. There's also a view over the quarry which isn't beautiful but is fascinating. The whole structure was created by artist Andrew Sabin and is a mammoth feat of engineering and building skill, 

Once you've admired the views, found the fossils, discovered which direction is Kiev and spotted the local wildlife, walk back down the hill. A few minutes down the hill towards Pateley Bridge is Toft Gate Barn Cafe. I love it! It's got such a fantastic warm and open feel about it, great views and most importantly, excellent cake. Unlike many barn conversions, this one hasn't turned its back on its past and there are plenty of reminders inside of its agricultural heritage. The friendly staff also serve snacks and light meals. 

There's a sundial monument in Linton that proudly declares it to be (in 1949) the loveliest village in the North of England. That's still true today, although I might be tempted to scribble out the "the North of" bit... I can well imagine the sense of tranquility the judges of this award must have felt when they visited, especially after the horrors of the war. Nowadays it's a wonderful place to go when you want to retreat from the busy world. 

​If you have any recalcitrant children with you, you might want to set them the task of seeing how many ways there are to cross the river Wharfe and Linton Beck. Within the little hamlet, you'll immediately spot the beautiful green, flanked on one side by the Fountaine Inn and on the other the beck. 

There are three bridges, including an ancient clapper bridge and the 14th century humpback bridge known as "Little Emily's Bridge". Close to the clapper bridge you'll see a building in a combination of Palladian and Georgian styles that seems a little grand for a Dales hamlet. It's known as the Fountaine Hospital after its founder Richard Fountaine of Linton who made his fortune and then left money in his will to built the almshouses and chapel in 1721. The building is still in use and you can slip in and see the tiny chapel during daylight hours. The other cottages feel more agricultural and in keeping with the scale of the village, where flax was an important crop. 

From here it's worth following signs to the 12th century Linton Church next to which you'll see the stepping stones. Linton Beck runs down to the River Wharfe at the limestone Linton Falls, where there's another bridge for the footpath up to Grassington. 

When you've finished exploring Linton you can enjoy a fantastic meal at the very cosy and picturesque Fountaine Inn or walk up to Grassington.