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Baler twine

Baler twine. The Dales would fall apart without it. It's neither beautiful nor environmentally friendly (unless you take account of the make-do-and-mend-don't-buy-new effect).

Looking out for baler twine uses may seem like a very odd way to explore the Yorkshire Dales but once you've started doing it, you'll realise there's a curious beauty to some its uses.

I should maybe confess that I have a bit of a 'thing' for string in all its forms, never throwing any out, carefully storing it 'just in case'.

So how about a baler twine spotting tour of the Dales, documenting every sighting with a photo?

Here are a few uses I've spotted:

keeping a gate (nearly) closed,
lambing aid
plaited & woven to make mats
as bootlaces
replacement belt
tractor repairs
'temporary' (i.e. about 10 years) fix for a fence
makeshift dog lead
repairing broken hurdles
sheep or cattle halters
stringing up tall plants like beans
kept in your pocket, just in case...

Any more?

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Hoffmann Kiln

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Most of the posts on this blog are about the beauty of the Yorkshire Dales, but sometimes the most interesting or surprising places aren't really beautiful in the traditional sense of the word. They're awe-inspiring or perhaps challenging in some way. The Hoffmann Kiln is an old industrial feature which may not sound very appealing, but its sheer scale, hidden location and atmosphere make it remarkable.

Many people have no clue that the Hoffmann Kiln lies a short distance from Settle, or of its size and significance. It's not easy to find - drive on the B6479 out of Settle towards Langcliffe and it's opposite the quarry, then under the railway bridge. There's a small car park.

Don't think of a kiln in the usual small pottery sense - this is a vast feat of engineering, with interpretation panels to explain how it functioned.

Venturing inside the archways you'll instantly experience the eerie damp darkness of the huge tunnel. This incredible structure was built in 1873 for the Craven Lime Company using a patented system created by a German inventor to burn lime. There were 22 individual burning chambers working in a continuous circuit, taking around 6 weeks to complete the cycle. Considering how much effort went into the creation of this huge construction, it wasn't in use for very long, with the last firing in 1937. In 1951 there were plans to demolish the chimney but it fell down of its own accord the day before the planned ceremony, when no-one was looking!

A good way to experience the Hoffmann Kiln is to download this informative free audio trail. Park in the car park in nearby Stainforth and then walk along the river Ribble, by Stainforth Foss waterfall to Langclifee and then by the Hoffmann Kiln.

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167. Pendragon Castle

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Image thanks to Paul Harris

David Bellamy described the area around Mallerstang as "England's last wilderness".

It does feel pretty remote in the Eden Valley between Garsdale head and Kirkby Stephen. The brooding fells in the distance add to the unworldly feel.

Pendragon Castle sits close to the river, and is said to have been built by King Arthur's father, Uther Pendragon. It's more likely that a previous wooden structure was built on that site at that time.

There are plenty of stories associated with this atmospheric place: that the Roman's first built a fort here (a Roman coin was found but no other evidence); that Uther Pendragon tried to re-route the river Eden to provide a moat, that Saxon invaders poisoned the water in the well and killed 100 of Pendragon's men.

According to its Grade I listing, the fortified tower dates from the 12th century. It was abandoned after a raid by a Scottish army set fire to it, rebuilt in the 14th century and burnt down again in the 16th century. Pendragon's heyday was probably in the 17th century when Lady Anne Clifford (who also owned Skipton Castle) restored it and added stables, a brew and bake house. She sounds like a remarkable woman, arguing her right to the castle for 40 years, and continuing to visit the castle until 1676 when she died at the great age of 86.

Now there is enough of the building for it to still be recognisable as a castle, and it's worth visiting not just for its history but the sense that you might have just stepped into a Famous Five mystery, full of the promise of adventure. Horsemen may yet still appear out of the mist to search for King Arthur's relatives.

Pendragon Castle is privately owned but access is permitted so long as you take care not to damage the building or take risks around the castle as parts are still in perilous condition despite some restoration.
All images thanks to Paul Harris.

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Thornborough Henges

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Image: A M Hunt from Yorkshire Archaeological Aerial Mapping

There are plenty of stunning places in and around the Yorkshire Dales that are not well-known despite their unique features. Thornborough is on the fringes of the Dales, between the A1 and Masham and yet barely anyone has ever heard of it.

The name may be familiar to a few thanks to Thornborough Cider, but hardly anyone knows of one of England's most significant and mysterious prehistoric sites - the Thornborough Henges.

Called by some the "Stonehenge of the North", this site is very different to its Southern cousin. There are no stones to see and neither are there any crowds.

The Thornborough Henges are thought to be over 5000 years old and consist of three circular mounds, ditches and banks.

You can see and feel some of the scale of these curious landmarks by wandering around the site but these aerial images by A M Hunt of Yorkshire Archaeological Aerial Mapping give a much clearer indication. It's one of the largest ritual religious sites in Britain.

Image: A M Hunt from Yorkshire Archaeological Aerial Mapping

The Thornborough Henges are thought to be the world's only triple henge complex.

Unlike some prehistoric sites where your imagination has to work harder than your eyes to discern any traces of the past, at Thornborough it's still possible to see the ditches and banks, particularly the northern henge.

The structure is apparently in alignment with Orion's Belt in the night sky, something they have in common with Egypt's Great Pyramids. Some believe the Thornborough Henges were built even before the pyramids. If so, what made man so many miles apart decide to build these great works in line with Orion?

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Georgian Theatre Royal

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Most people associate the Yorkshire Dales with stunning scenery, but there's one type of different scenery here that you may not know about: we have Britain's oldest surviving stage scenery. It's a beautiful woodland scene, has been fully restored and you can see it during a Georgian Theatre Experience at the Theatre Royal in Richmond.

The Georgian Theatre Royal is a really special place. You step through the modern frontage literally into another world, one that's quite unexpected in the Dales. It's not a big theatre but it's certainly professional and historic. It's actually Britain's oldest working theatre in its original form, and manages to fulfil several roles admirably - as a playhouse, a living theatre museum, wedding and meeting venue.

Built by actor-manager Samuel Butler in 1788, it was in regular use for performances until at least 1830 and then had a variety of other purposes including as an auction room and wine vault! After a significant programme of restoration it re-opened in 1963, and was later expanded.

How does a performance in an 18th century playhouse feel? It's a much more intimate experience than in many theatres, with a sort of courtyard feel. Boxes and galleried seating are quite close to the stage - the furthest seat is less than 11 metres from the stage. The colour scheme feels authentic, with simulated candle lustres adding to the atmosphere. The seats aren't the softest but being that close to the stage you'll be too engrossed to notice.

The Georgian Theatre Experience offers a change to go back stage, when you can discover much more about the history of the theatre and its secrets. Their tours are really immersive with a chance to try on costumes, and learn about the life of a Georgian actor. You'll even be able to stand on the stage, see the historic woodland scenery and look at the stage from the perspective of both the cheap seats and an exclusive box. For more details of when tours and performances take place please see their website. All images thanks to The Georgian Theatre Royal.

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Country shows

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Image by Stephen Garnett

Have you been to one of the many agricultural shows in the Yorkshire Dales? They're not just for farmers - everyone is welcome.

During the Summer months, you'll find them taking places in every corner of the Yorkshire Dales: Birstwith, Lunesdale, Brough, Gargrave, Wensleydale, Reeth, Kilnsey, Malham, Bentham, Muker, Nidderdale & Masham.

Each one is different but has a similar celebratory atmosphere, a chance for farmers to gather and visitors to get an insight into another life. Find out which show takes place when here.

As soon as the first marquees and tents appear, the excitement builds. You'll spot people scurrying around as they place their carefully tended onions in their allocated place in the show tent, see farmers making final tweaks to their sheep, ensuring there are no stray white hairs in a black muzzle. Horse-riders tentatively enjoy a last-minute practice round the show ring. Farmers clap each other on the back in greeting, grunt a few words to each other, then tend to their animals - banter will come later, once the rosettes have been handed out. The air is full of a mixture of manure, leather and straw bales.

Yorkshire Dales country shows are a chance to see the best of the countryside: cattle at their finest and fattest; cabbages at their greenest; cakes at their lightest and most moist deliciousness. Many shows include fell-running races and other feats of determination and strength.

In the show-rings you'll see sheep, cows, horses, dogs, ferrets and other animals primped and paraded. Judges carefully scrutinise every detail, sometimes to the bemusement of onlookers. The rear end of a prize tup (ram) will be considered just as carefully as its face. The crowd will ooh and aah as decisions are made and skills demonstrated. Onlookers don't always understand why one sheep wins over another but if you go and ask the proud winners to explain their livestock's best features, they'll happily do so. Winning at some of these agricultural shows can vastly increase market prices and secure breeding lines.

In the tents you'll find gorgeous displays of flowers, vegetables, cakes and handicrafts. Children's competition categories almost always include "made an animal out of a vegetable". At almost every show you'll notice certain family names appearing again and again on prize certificates. Friendly rivalry is strong, resurrected each year.

These fantastic photos by Stephen Garnett give a taste of what you can expect to find - these were all taken at Malham Show.

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Outdoor clothing

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As Wainwright said, 'there's no such thing as bad weather, only unsuitable clothing". Considering that he wrote that in around 1973, I imagine he just meant put on your Big Coat and Shoes, as all the hi-tech outdoor clothing available now is a relatively recent innovation.

Interestingly, Wainwright was writing just as husband and wife Paul and Sarah Howcroft were sitting at their kitchen table in the Yorkshire Dales starting to use the emerging advances in textiles to create hard-wearing clothes for climbers and walkers. Their company, Rohan, still has a shop in the Yorkshire Dales in Long Preston which also has a clearance section.

We've all got waterproof skin so I'm never really sure why people get so worked up about rain. I will admit that we did have one barbecue when we continued eating outdoors in the rain and it wasn't so pleasant: the broccoli was actually floating in a half inch of water on the plate. Without rain, the Yorkshire Dales would not be so lush and green so we should be grateful really...

Getting back to the need for suitable outdoor clothing, I recently asked for some recommendations for the best outdoor clothing shops in the Dales.

Castleberg Outdoors in Settle got recommended again and again. The staff were praised for their knowledgeable approach, fact they're all keen walkers, runners and bikers and that they make sure they offer a personalised service, matching kit to individuals and their needs.

Other recommendations for good outdoor clothing shops in the Yorkshire Dales:

Three Peaks Outdoor Leisure in Hawes
The Mountaineer in Grassington
Cunningham's Outdoors in Hawes
Sleepy Elephant in Sedbergh
Mad about Mountains in Kirkby Stephen
Inglesport in Ingleton
Sypeland Outdoors in Pateley Bridge
The Walking Shop in Leyburn
Three Peaks Cycles in Settle
Stage 1 Cycles in Hawes

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Pub games

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RIchard III, Middleham

I've suggested in a previous blog that if you need an excuse to go to the pub, you could claim to be studying history. Here's another reason: an even more in-depth historical study via pub games. You can still find them being played in traditional pubs in the Yorkshire Dales. Their history is quite fascinating.

Darts is probably the most common game to be found and many pubs still have a darts team. The game probably dates back to the Middle Ages, as an indoor version of archery.

It's thought that originally the target would have been the end of a barrel. Nowadays darts is played with a purpose made target board hung on a wall and with metal darts with a “flight” on the end. Once real feathers would have been used.

Dominoes is considered to be a very English game but its origins are much more exotic and ancient. There's evidence of a similar game being played in China as early as the 12th century. Travellers are believed to have introduced the game to Italy and eventually to France and England. A single domino was found in the wreckage of the 16th Mary Rose ship although there are no records of people playing dominos in England until the 18th century. Some believe it was brought here by French prisoners or war.

Another popular pub game is cribbage, said to have been invented by the poet, Sir John Suckling in the early 17th century. He was also a well-known scoundrel (isn't that a wonderful word?!), and earned around £20,000 (the equivalent of about £4million now) playing cribbage with aristocrats around England. He may have falsely taken credit for the creation of cribbage as some historians say it's simply a development of a Tudor game called Noddy.

Quoits is an outdoor game, sometimes known as 'horseshoes', which involves throwing horseshoe-shaped rings at a pin usually staked in the ground. It's easy to imagine travellers idling outside pubs of yore, challenging each other to games of skill using horseshoes that would have been routinely cast off. It may however have even earlier origins as quoits are said to have been similar to a discus. The game could even have been played by the ancient Greeks. There's a suggestion that the Greeks passed on the game to the Romans and from there it came to England.

Whatever the origins of these games, you can find them in many Dales pubs. But you may need a beer or two to help contemplate their history...

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Pub names

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Looking for an excuse to go and sit in a cosy Yorkshire Dales pub? Tell everyone you're studying history. There's so much more to our pubs than 'just' beer.

Go to a pub and you're continuing a tradition that probably started in Roman times, when they developed a network of sort-of-inns to offer refreshment for workers and travellers.

The King of Wessex apparently established legal ale houses in the 7th century but the main contributors to the English pub were monks.

Pub signs and names

Have you ever wondered how pub signs and names developed? The Romans were the first to paint signs outside buildings to indicate the profession of the inhabitants. The large illiterate population depended on simple illustrations. For example a picture of the Roman god of Bacchus would symbolise a wine merchant.

In 1393 all pubs were ordered to hang a sign outside to make them easily visible. Hops, barley and barrels were often used as the main illustration, giving rise to pub names such as the Three Barrels.

Many early pub names were religious, such as The Angel, The Cross or Crossed Keys (emblem of St. Peter) or The Bell indicated pubs near to churches. Some were influenced by local landowners such as The Devonshire Arms.

The king in 1393 was Richard II so many pubs were called The White Hart (it's about 4th most popular pub name in Britain), which was the personal badge of Richard II, as their sign. Through the ages many pubs used names that showed their loyalty to the monarch, such The Crown. There are still many pubs called The Rose and Crown which commemorated the end of the Wars of the Roses when Henry Tudor (Lancaster - red rose) married Elizabeth of York (white rose).

The Red Lion is another popular name, with several possible origins. A red lion was the personal badge of the Duke of Lancaster (very powerful in the 14th century) and then later of King James I. Names like the Royal Oak refer to the Oak in which King Charles II hid from his enemies. The Queen's Head refers to the picture of Elizabeth 1 or Queen Victoria on its sign, rather than a beheaded queen like Anne Boleyn.

There are plenty of pubs named after famous battles and admirals. Other pub names refer to special events or local features such as The Railway, The Station, The Cricketers, or The Coach and Horses, a place where horses were changed and stagecoach passengers fed or rested. The Plough was a common name in farming areas for obvious reasons. Some pubs have more complicated names that tell even more of the story behind their origin such as the curiously named Black Bull in Paradise. Several pubs in the Yorkshire Dales bear the name of another famous cow - the Craven Heifer. This was the largest cow ever shown in England, which was bred on the Bolton Abbey Estate, and which weighed a mighty 312 stones!

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Behave yourself

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Photo: Guy Carpenter, Gullwing Photography

When my daughter was young, we once picked her up from school in fancy dress costumes (long story!). She was mortified to see her father walking into the playground in a flowery yellow 1970s suit.

After that if she behaved badly we only had to say "dad will pick you up from school in that yellow suit" and she instantly reformed...

I'm not sure whether that punishment would be better or worse than the one that was used for centuries in England: the village stocks.

Double decker stocks in Kettlewell

You can still see wooden stocks in several villages around the Yorkshire dales. I can instantly think of the ones in Bainbridge (see above), Kettlewell and Kirkby Malham, but there are many more. Being made of wood, some have long since rotted or been moved away from the village green to a less obvious spot. I like that each village had their own different style.

The basic construction of stocks was broadly similar - moveable planks with holes cut out for the legs, occasionally two tiers to include holes for the arms as well. A boulder or stool may be added for the victim to sit on.

They were used for minor miscreants, such as vagabonds who'd drink too much. Victims were kept in the stocks for a few hours at least, and since they were usually on village greens in full view of passers-by, part of the punishment was the humiliation as people made "laughing stocks" of them, sometimes even throwing rotten vegetables.

Was Kirkby Malham a particularly unruly place as there as these stocks have space for 3 people?

A law was passed in 1350 called the Stature of Labourers to order that every village and town in England should have village stocks. The last recorded use was in Rugby in 1865.

When I was researching their history for this blog (you can see how my whimsical research is a fantastic procrastination activity), I discovered that their use has never been expressly abolished so in theory we could bring them back into use... For politicians maybe?

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167. Pendragon Castle

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